Centipede Grass
The Lazy Man's Turfgrass

Centipedegrass, often spelled centipede grass, is a warm season grass that extends from Florida and along the gulf coast over to Texas. It can extend as for north as North Carolina, but its low cold tolerance limits its range much beyond that. It will do best along the southern coastal regions of the warm/humid adaptation zone.

Centipede grass is a yellow green, coarse textured grass that spreads by stolons. Stolons are above ground stems that grow horizontally along the surface of the soil. Every stolon has growing points along its length called nodes. Each node produces a new plant identical to the mother plant. For more information on how plants grow, see Plant Structure.

It is called "The Lazy Man's Grass" because of its low maintenance and fertility needs compared to many other grasses. While it may be the perfect grass for some people, it is not for everyone. It depends on how it will be used and the soil conditions it is planted in. The name is somewhat of a misnomer if conditions are not right for this grass as described below.

Centipede grass is similar to St. Augustinegrass in appearance, but has a much lower fertility and maintenance requirement. The low maintenance requirement is probably the biggest draw to this grass. It requires only a third as much fertilizer as St. Augustine and can grow in less fertile soil. It also has a slower growth rate.

In todays fast pace world, we are always looking for a short cut, while not giving up quality. The new varieties of centipede grass may be the answer for some people, but only if you are in the right climate zone for it.

Slow growth rate is good for the busy person, but remember, it also means that it will be much slower growing out of any damage problems. Centipede grass cannot take much traffic, so if your family enjoys spending a lot of time playing games and sports on the lawn, you might consider whether it will hold up.

What if you decide that you really like lawn work, such as, mowing and fertilizing? Trying to force the grass to grow faster through over-fertilization will only harm the grass. You can cause a thinning of the grass’ cuticle (outer layer of the grass) making it easier for diseases to penetrate. You will also increase the chances of thatch build-up. Grass insects that feed on plant juices love nitrogen rich, over-fertilized lawns and will attack them heavily.

The pros and cons of centipedegrass

Advantages of Centipede grass

As already noted, Centipede grass is a low maintenance turfgrass. The slow growth rate means less mowing and the low fertility requirements mean less fertilizer. Centipede grass needs only 2 lbs nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. per year. Due to the low fertility requirements, it will perform better in less fertile soils than other grass types.

Centipede grass doesn’t produce rhizomes, (underground stems) but spreads by production of above ground horizontal stems called stolons. Like many other warm season grasses, these spreading stems allow the grass to heal damaged areas. It can be established using sod, plugs, sprigs and seed.

It prefers to grow in full sun, but can handle moderate shade. In heavier shade it will thin or die.

Lawns are not the only use for this grass. Other uses include right-of-ways, parks, sunny hillsides or any low traffic area where a low maintenance grass is desired. In areas that will receive little or no maintenance, the grass could eventually spread into places where it is not wanted. Regular maintenance will help prevent this. Since centipede grass only has above ground stems, keeping it under control is much easier than grass that spread by underground stems.

Disadvantages

Centipede grass does not have a good wear tolerance, so its primary use is on lawns where light traffic is expected. Athletic fields are not a recommended use for this grass. It can’t take traffic, compacted soils, alkaline soils, heavy thatch, drought or heavy shade. In addition, the soil must be balanced in phosphorus and potassium. (Not quite a true "lazy man's grass" when conditions are not right for it.) Its preferred adaptation zone is mostly restricted to the coastal regions of the south or it may risk winter damage.

It is classified as a drought tolerant grass, but this label comes with its own problems. Many people believe that a drought resistant grass means it doesn’t need to be watered, or at least, very infrequently. That is not true. It will still need to be watered or it could suffer damage during high heat or drought periods.

Centipede grass prefers acidic soils and can become chlorotic in alkaline soils. Iron deficient grass is identified by its yellow appearance. Applications of iron chelate may be necessary to temporarily correct the problem.

Centipede grass doesn’t quite go dormant like bermudagrass or zoysiagrass. Cold fronts followed by warming trends can rob the grass of needed nutrients and too many cold spells below 5 degrees can kill the grass. That is something to consider if you live in an area that gets frequent winter storms. Some of the improved varieties have a much better cold tolerance.

Maintenance requirements and lawn care tips

Irrigation

Centipede grass is shallow rooted, so signs of drought stress need to be monitored. Because of the shallow roots, centipede grass isn’t as drought resistant as many would have you to believe. As with other grasses, the grass will tell you when it needs to be watered. A sign that grass needs watering is evidenced in a slight change of color. Another sign of drought stress is when your footprints are left in the grass after walking on it. When walking on well watered grass, the grass should immediately spring back up. Water should be applied to the point where the soil is wet 3 to 4 inches deep. Deep watering promotes deeper root growth.

Centipede grass doesn’t go dormant like other grasses, so it will need to be watered occasionally in the winter months, especially during warm periods.

Don’t practice shallow watering, this only promotes even shallower rooting. Soil dries out from the surface down, so grass with shallow roots will show stress much faster than deep rooted grass.

Depending on the type of soil you have will help determine how often per week you will need to water. Sandy soil doesn’t hold water well, so you may need to water two or three times a week. Loamy or Clay soils hold more water. Clay soils can compact easily and compacted soil has less air and holds less water.

Don’t set your sprinkler system to come on everyday, but rather water when it needs it. Those who water everyday whether the grass needs it or not will only encourage thatch problems.

Mowing

Centipede grass should be mowed at 1 to 1.5 inches and should not be allowed to grow above 2 inches. Grass quality deteriorates when the grass is not cut frequently. It can be allowed to grow to two inches tall in late fall just before the first heavy frost. When mowing, a sharp blade is necessary for a clean cut. Dull blades will tear the grass instead of cutting it.

Thatch

Centipedegrass, like other warm season grasses, will produce thatch. Thatch is not soil, but a mixture of shed roots, stems and other lawn debris. Contrary to what you hear, lawn clippings do not contribute to thatch.

Thatch is acidic, so you will have more problems in high acid soils. Over fertilization and excessive watering will also encourage thatch build up. In addition, allowing centipede grass to grow beyond 2 inches tall will encourage thatch.

Thatch can be harmful in many ways. The grass roots can’t tell the difference between thatch and soil, so new roots will often grow in the thatch. Thatch is a spongy material and dries out must faster than soil, robbing the roots of needed water. If it completely dries out, it can become hydrophobic. This means water will not penetrate, but instead, will pool on the surface of the thatch. Fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides often become trapped in the thatch, never reaching the soil. Tests have shown that almost 100% of insecticides become trapped in heavy thatch. This can also prevent the insecticides from controlling the target insects.

There are also other things you can do to prevent or alleviate thatch problems. One is to run a core aerator over the grass. Make sure it is a core aerator and not a spike aerator. Spike aerators will not relieve soil compaction. Core aeration opens up the soil by pulling out a 2.5 to 3 inch plug allowing water and air to reach the root zone. Rent the heaviest core aerator you can find. Grass, thick thatch, and root systems can be hard to penetrate and will need a heavy machine to do the job effectively. These machines are heavy and difficult to handle if you are not used to them. You may consider hiring a professional to do the job for you. When you are finished, leave the cores on the soil to break down naturally. As the cores break down, they feed the soil micro-organisms.

Top dressing is a practice of professional turf organizations and can be done on home lawns as well. It is the process of scattering organic matter over the surface of the soil. A thin layer of quality organic matter will help feed the beneficial micro-organisms that feed on the thatch. If needed, vertical mowing or dethatching machines can be rented to tear out the thatch. A blade spacing of 3 or 4 inch will work. Less than 2 inches may harm the grass.

Fertilization

Centipede grass should be fertilized twice a year, but can get by on one. You should not apply more than 2 lbs of nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. per year and the nitrogen divided up into 2 feeding per year. Do not apply more than 2 lbs nitrogen per year or the grass may be harmed. Note: The 2 lbs per year rate is only for those who want the optimum aesthetics. A rate of 1 to 1.5 lbs per year will work well most people. The grass should be fertilized once in the spring after green up and another in mid-summer.

Centipede grass prefers somewhat acidic soils. Soils with a pH over 7.0 can cause the grass to become chlorotic (iron deficient). Yellow grass blades are a symptom of an iron deficiency. A temporary solution to the deficiency is an application of iron. Iron chelates or iron sulfate will provide green color for a short time. Don’t use the granular iron for this situation, but iron that is mixed with water and sprayed on. This way, the iron is absorbed directly into the plant and not taken up by the roots. Why? The iron may be in the soil, but the roots can’t take it up because of the pH problem. Correcting the soil problems is a long term solution. Applications of sulfur as determined by a soil test will help with the alkalinity.

Planting

Centipede grass can be purchased in sod, plugs, or seed. Sod provides an instant yard. Plugs are the second best method and should be spaced 1 ft. apart. Sprigs, which are actually stolons, should be shallowly covered with soil to encourage rooting. The blades need to be left uncovered and exposed to direct sunlight to perform photosynthesis. Click here for a helpful and detailed view of Photosynthesis. Weeds may be a problem until the grass fills in which could take from all summer to a full of year.

Centipede grass seed is quite small and care should be made to distribute it evenly. One of the tricks of the trade is to mix the seed with sand. One quarter to one half pound of seed mixed with a gallon of sand should be spread over a 1000 sq. ft. and will take up to 21 days to germinate. Keep the seed bed moist until the seeds have sprouted. A starter fertilizer of less than 1 lb of nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. can be applied. Starter fertilizer should only be used with seed and should never be used on established centipede grass.

2,4-D sensitivity

2,4-D herbicide shouldn’t be used on centipede grass. It is sensitive to this chemical and can be harmed by it. 2,4-D is a broadleaf weed herbicide used in many products including Weed-B-Gone, some weed and feed products and others.

Click on the link for information on weeds and weed control. You will find valuable weed information, including photos for correct identification and the steps necessary to control them.

Insects and disease problems

Insects

Centipede grass isn’t bothered too much by insects. If it is attacked, grub worms will probably be the most damaging. It can also be bothered by the spittlebug and mole cricket. Nematodes are another major pest. Nematodes are microscopic worm like organisms that live in the root zone. Detection for nematodes must be done by a lab that specializes in turf problems. Your local university extension office may send in samples to be checked for a small charge. Yellowed patches or thinning and dying patches of grass could point to nematode damage when no other causes could be identified.

White grubs are the larva of the June beetle and feed on the grass at the soil level. Evidence of white grub damage is when the grass appears cut at the soil line and can be lifted up like a carpet. Large sections of the lawn can be damaged. To check for grubs, cut three side of a one foot square and peel back the grass to expose the grass roots. Grubs will live in the root area of grass. More than three grubs per sq. ft. warrant the use of insecticides.

A good biological control for grubs, sod webworms and cut worms is the microbial insecticide called “Baccilus Thuringensis”. Once it is consumed by the insects, it kills by producing toxins within the gut.

Mach 2 is another biological control that uses Halofenozide as the active ingredient. It interrupts the pupation stage of grub larvae without harming beneficial insects. This product needs to be applied well in advance of any damage. It will have no effect if applied at the time insects are damaging your lawn. If you have had problems with grubs before, you will probably have them again. It means you have the type of soil the adult June beetle is looking for to lay eggs in.

Quick kill products for most insects include trichlorofon (dylox) and carbaryl (sevin). Be aware that thatch can hinder the movement of insecticides to the root zone where grubs live.

Some pest controls, including some biological controls, are available only to certified pesticide applicators. Many commercial applicators will apply what you need without selling you a whole program. Check with those in your area to see.

Centipede Grass Diseases

Brown patch

Brown patch occurs in the hot, humid, wet periods of summer. It begins as a 1foot patch and can enlarge to several feet in diameter. The lesions that appear on the grass become tan in appearance as the grass tissue dries out. Webby mycelium often appears on the grass on damp mornings. Avoid applications of nitrogen fertilizer and well as weed control products when the disease is present. It will only feed the fungus. As the humidity decreases and the soil dries out, the disease subsides, and the grass usually recovers. As long as the grass crown is not affected, the grass will grow out of it. If you live in a section of the country where high humidity is the rule and not the exception, fungicides, such as Daconil, are available to help control brown patch. Fungicides must be applied in the early stages of disease development for best results.

Centipede decline

The disease pathogen is not identified, but the declining grass seems to be more prevalent in over fertilized, high growing turf. Following sound maintenance practices is the best approach to avoiding this disease.