Improving Grass Root Growth
Tips and Techniques

Deep and far reaching grass root growth is one of the greatest factors that help lower fertilizer use, while increasing efficiency of nutrient uptake. Grass roots are extremely complex systems. Unfortunately, most lawn care techniques I see homeowners using promote shallow grass root growth. To complicate matters, most of the information we receive for developing deeper roots points to the type of fertilizer we use. Every company puts their unique spin on it. While the type of fertilizer we use can be important, it is not the only factor. It is also important to realize that if your lawn’s roots are shallow or stunted, your fertility program will have limited effect.

The goal of every lawn fertility program is to deliver the right amount of nutrients to the plants at the time they need it. A secondary goal is keep the nutrients in the root zone as long as possible with the least amount of leaching. A well-developed grass root system is your first line of defense against leaching.

Healthy grass root growth will result in roots that are extremely fibrous and numerous. The roots of healthy turf will be far reaching horizontally, while grass root growth extends deep in the soil. In fact, the roots of grass plants are many times more dense and efficient at removing nutrients from the soil than the roots of field crops. Far reaching grass root growth is your greatest defense against nutrient leaching. For this reason, it is always in the best interest of the environment and your grass to develop and maintain a healthy root system.

Proven Techniques for Improved Grass Root Growth

Several important cultural practices are important for developing deep and far reaching roots. Below are some of the more important practices used for improving grass root growth.

• Mowing Height -Mowing height may affects root depth more than anything else. As a rule, the higher the grass is cut, the deeper the roots go. Most people cut their lawn too low. Tall fescue, bluegrass, ryegrass, and a few species of warm season grasses can be maintained at 3 to 4 inches all year. Deeper roots help grasses to endure heat and environment stress much easier as well.

  There are some exceptions. Some grasses are designed to be maintained at lower levels. Bentgrasses, some zoysia species, improved bermudagrasses, centipedegrass and others. It is important to cut your grass at the correct level. Grasses will use nutrients at their greatest efficiency when maintained at their proper level.

• Proper Irrigation- Shallow, frequent irrigation produces shallow roots. For most grasses, deeper, but less frequent irrigation will produce the deepest roots. After watering the soil should be moist at 4 to 6 inches below the surface. The grass should not be watered again until the blades start to show signs of drought stress. This trains the roots to reach deeper where the soil remains moist for longer periods.

  Please don’t think you are harming your grass by waiting to water when grass begins to show signs of drought. Grass has a built-in mechanism to slow water loss during dry, hot weather. To slow water loss, the blades will fold, which shows the lighter underside. So a change in color is a clear signal it is time to water again. Hot, dry weather may mean that water is needed more often. Cooler weather will require less water.

  There are some exceptions, however. Sandy soil does not retain water well, so deep water may not be helpful. For extremely sandy soil, the only option is to add organic matter to the soil for better water retention or water more frequently. The grass will tell you when it is time for more water.

• Soil Conditions- The type of soil you have will either encourage or discourage deep root development. Heavy clay soils, while it offers good water retention, also compacts easily and can become waterlogged. Incorporation of organic matter, such as compost, will loosen the soil and provide better air exchange.

  A product called Turface was developed by the sports industry for use clay baseball infields. It is applied to infields because of its ability to quickly absorb large quantities of rain water without becoming slippery. Its water and air retention capabilities has made it a great product for use on lawns and in container gardens, as well as artificial soil in bonsai plants and aquariums. About the size of large fertilizer granules, it absorbs 10 times its weight in water and evenly releases the water over time. It can be expensive for large lawns, but it doesn’t break down after it is applied. Once applied and worked into the soil, it is permanent. This is a great option if you use your lawn for activities such as weddings, social gatherings or other activities. I know of a number of outdoor wedding that were saved with Turface.

  Sandy soil doesn’t retain water well. Incorporating organic matter provides nutrients and greatly increases water retention. In extremely sandy soil, adding organic matter to form a 50/50 mix in the top six inches of soil may be needed.

• Use the Correct Fertilizer- Slow release fertilizers will distribute nutrients over time as opposed to fast release fertilizers. All mineral, fast release fertilizers are inexpensive, but all the ingredients release at the same time. Due to the high salt content, they must be watered in to keep from burning. Depending on conditions, as much as 80 percent can leach below the root zone.

  Fertilization is a science and knowledge is the key to maintaining your lawn successfully. For developing a good lawn fertility plan, click on the fertilization and organic pages to see how they are best used.

• Soil pH- Different grass species can have a slightly different pH that they grow best in. Adjusting the pH is not difficult. First, check the soil pH by submitting a soil sample through your county extension office or by using an over-the-counter soil pH kit. These over-the-counter kits are not as accurate, but they will give you an estimate of your soil pH conditions.

  Remember that organic matter is usually at or near neutral pH. If your pH is only slightly off, the addition of organic matter may fix it. If not, either limestone (for acidic soils) or sulfur (for alkaline soils) may be needed. These can be purchased at your local home and garden store.

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