The Lawn Care Academy Blog

Looking for the latest lawn care tips and trends? You have come to the right place. You will find detailed information for everything from zoysia to fescue and organics to conventional fertilizers and much more.

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Myth Buster #2: Adding Soil Microbes Always Improves Fertility

Myth: Adding soil microbes to any soil always increases soil fertility and plant health.

It is true that soil microorganisms are the backbone of organic fertility. Without them, nothing would live. Microbes are responsible for all the mineralization of raw elements in the soil by converting them into nutrients the plants can use. Incredibly, a single gram of healthy soil can contain over a billion beneficial bacteria. Many companies actually sell beneficial microbes that are easily applied to plants and soil.

With microbes being so important, it would make great sense to simply add microbes via a commercial product or a homemade "organic tea" of some sort. The added microbes will increase in number and activity producing healthier plants. Right? Not necessarily.

Let's view it first from a different angle. Consider the Exxon Valdez oil spill where the additions of microbes were explored to consume the oil:

Quote from Discovery News: "There was an awful lot of hype in the 1970s and 1980s about adding bacteria, and it didn't really pan out," says Robert Howarth, a professor of ecology and environmental biology at Cornell University who worked on the Exxon Valdez cleanup effort."

Why? While crude oil was the target for the bacteria to breakdown, oil by itself cannot support bacterial life. For life, the microbes needed an increase in nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, etc. You simply cannot add all those nutrients to water without creating other problems.

Added to the problems are the cold waters off Alaska from artic currents, short summers and long winters that shorten activity periods of oil destroying bacteria.

Now, let's jump to today: Researchers experimenting with adding bacteria to ocean water in the Gulf Oil Spill offer these similar observations:

"The problem, [with adding additional bacteria] Lee and Atlas say, is that besides oil, the bacteria need other nutrients in greater abundance for their populations to grow. "What is useful is the addition of a fertilizer -- nitrogen or phosphorus," Atlas says… Leaving the environment’s native bacteria to do their own cleanup might be just as good, he adds." Discovery News [online Discovery Channel News] Friday June 11, 2010.

The current bacteria levels in the Gulf, without any additions, will quickly breakdown any oil in those warm waters.

The bottom line is: Whether bacteria are added to the Gulf to breakdown oil or to soil to breakdown organic matter, for bacteria to live they require other things as well.

A principle problem with many garden organics is how low they are in inorganic nutrients, often too low to support large additions of added bacteria. In these instances, fertilizer should always accompany additions of bacteria. There must also be proper soil temperature, near neutral pH, adequate moisture, etc.

Nature is about balance. Bacteria are living, breathing organisms that will seek balance in their environment based on available nutrients. Without the necessary elements for additional bacteria to thrive, bacteria will move toward the center by a failure to thrive and even attacking and consuming the other bacteria until balance is restored.

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Keeping Soil Microbes Healthy

Beneficial soil microbes are the invisible force behind the mineralization of elements and plant health. Exposing myths while learning the secrets for keeping microbe populations at optimum levels.

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Sitemap for Lawn Care Academy

Lawn Care Academy's Sitemap makes finding information painless. Pages are organized under subject related subheadings for easy access.

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Bald Faced Hornet Facts Page

The bald faced hornet has a well-deserved reputation, especially when defending their nest. However, hornet nest removal is easy following a time-tested common sense approach.

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Lawn Moles and Voles

Lawn moles can be very frustrating and difficult to get rid of. However, it can be done. Knowledge is the key to successfully getting rid of moles.

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All About Lawn Grubs

There are several species of lawn grubs that can damage turf. A basic knowledge of grub life cycles will help you assess potential problems and prevent damage before it starts.

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Cat and Dog Flea Medicine That Really Works

Applying a cat or dog flea medicine at the first sign of fleas will help prevent an infestation. This page profiles several of the best flea medicines available.

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Techniques for Overseeding Lawns

The practice of overseeding lawns is essential for maintaining your lawn’s long-term health and vibrancy. Yet it still remains one of the most overlooked disciplines by homeowners.

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Myth Busters #1: Do Chemical fertilizers Destroy Soil Microbes and Sterilize Soil?

We are completely behind the organic movement, but recognize that every movement has extreme views that are simply not true. Nevertheless, these views are believed by many. This page is intended to expose one such myth and correct it.

Consider the popular statement: "Inorganic fertilizers are destroying microbes and sterilizing our soils. The result is that plants are becoming addicted to synthetic fertilizers." While this sounds rational to some, any first year soil microbiology student will tell you this is not accurate. Why? For example, Martinus Beijerinck, considered the father of modern microbial ecology, taught that "Microbes are everywhere and the environment selects." This bedrock and fundamental fact of microbial ecology is intended to show that microbes are established in every place and condition on earth, even in the extremes. Short of an atomic explosion on your lawn, it is almost impossible to destroy all microbes. A material that may temporally suppress one microbe is choice food for another. Therefore, the balance is rarely far out of proportion nor for very long. Most chemicals are immediately attacked as soon as they touch the soil. The ability of microbes to breakdown even the most caustic substances is incredible.

More realistically, some chemicals may alter pH, etc. which may favor some microbes over others. It is always a give and take. You may not like the end results, but nevertheless, it will be balanced for the conditions.

Lets Pretend the Sterilization Statement is True

Completely sterilized soil means you have no soil microbes and no mineralization of elements to support plant life. You would need to become an expert in plant and soil fertility. Without microbes you would need to know which chemical fertilizers to use and how often. Some synthetic fertilizers would not work because they require soil microbes to release the nutrients. (I bet no one ever told you that.) Do you know which ones?

Answer: For example, you couldn’t use sulfur coated urea. The sulfur coating makes the fertilizer slow release, but soil microbes are needed to break through the coating to release the urea nitrogen. There are others as well. To be effective, you must choose fertilizers that require only water for activation. Again, do you know which ones they are? (Sorry about this absurd analogy.)

If you are still unsure, you can test the sterilization theory yourself. If someone tells you that your beautiful lawn is being sterilized, then do this: completely stop fertilizing. Yep, you guessed it. If your lawn has no soil microbes (or a tremendous decline) as they claim, then there will be little or no natural mineralization of elements (nutrients) into the soil. Your green grass will quickly decline unless you feed it yourself. Feeding your lawn will be never ending. No vacations, no skipping any feedings.

Avoiding some chemicals is a great idea for many reasons, but don't throw out common sense. Be cautious in extremes; most often the balance is found in the middle. Happy gardening!

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Identifing Pine Trees Made Easy

What kind of pine tree is that? You have probably asked that before, right? Wouldn't it be great if all trees emerged from the ground with names stamped on them.

Most people, when looking at a needled evergreens simply know them as a type of pine tree. This is far from accurate, however. While all pine trees have needles, not every tree with needles are actually pines.

Below are a few basic methods of easily identifying the family of tree a particular needled evergreen is part of.

Pine Trees

• Pine trees species range from shrub type to tall, majestic trees. They will almost always have shed needles under the tree that is often sold as pine needle mulch.
• Pine needles do not grow as single needles, but are always grouped in bundles of two to five needles, depending on the type of tree.
• Pine needle length is dependent on the specific type of pine. They may be a couple inches to close to a foot long.

Spruce Trees

• Spruce trees have sharp, single needles, sometimes with a bluish cast. Needles are only about .33 (1/3) to .75 inches long.
• Spruce tree needles are four sided to somewhat rounded in shape. You can easily roll them between your fingers
• Cones are short, only about 2 inches long.
• Spruce trees can be very tall reaching 120 feet in height. However, 60 to 80 ft. are more common.

Fir Trees

• Fir tree needles are flat and will not roll in your fingers easily. They are .75 to 1.25 inches long. Balsam fir has two white stripes running down the underside of needles.
• Cones grow at the top of the tree and are not easily seen.

Larch Trees

• Larch trees are deciduous and loose their needles in the fall.
• Larch needles are found in clusters and can contain up to 24 needles in each cluster.
• The tamarack larch forms very straight trunks without much taper and can be found in wetlands.

Hemlock Trees

• Needles are .5 inches long are are attached to the twig by a short stem which is something found only on hemlock trees.
• Cones are small and only about .75 inches long.

Yew

• Yew is not a tree and will rarely grow above 6 ft.
• Needles are flat, .5 to 1 inch long. Unlike balsam fir trees, the yew has no white lines on the underside.

Cedar Tree

• Cedar trees (red cedar) can reach medium height and are prime wood for log homes, furniture, cedar chests, etc.
• Needles are flat and produce fruit that looks like small blue balls.

Although this description will not give you the exact species of each tree, it will give you the family it is from which is a big help when diagnosing problems.

Click out Lawn Care Academy link for more lawn care advice.

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Lawn Top Dressing Facts

Top dressing is something that has been performed on sports fields and golf courses for years, but is something fairly new in home lawns.

For lawns, top dressing is the process of spreading a thin layer of organic compost over a lawn to improve soil and provide nutrients. Here are a few facts to consider:

• Top dressing is the easiest method of improving lawns with poor soil.
• Core aeration along with top dressing helps alter soil structure.
• Compost can be homemade or commercially processed.
• Compost feeds the billions of soil microbes, which in turn feeds the grass.
• Top dressing can reduce the amount of fertilizer needed for your lawn.
• Remember, compost is food and is consumed by microbes. Top dressing must be performed annually for best results.
• Soil microbes are most active in summer and least active in cool or winter months. Therefore, top dressing breakdown and nutrient uptake by plants are at it best in warm months.

For information on how to perform lawn top dressing along with important tips, click on the link provided.

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Climate Zones for Grass Adaptation

There are four major climate zones for grass adaptation in the U.S. Choosing the right grass for where you live is important step towards a healthy lawn.

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The Relation Between Mowing Height and Root depth

Grass roots, though hidden below ground, are as equally important as the grass blades above. Since roots are unseen, we rarely consider if our maintenance might be hindering root development.

Here is something you might not have considered. Root length and root depth is directly proportional to grass height. Again, the lower the grass is routinely cut, the shorter the roots become.

This is simply a part of plant genetics. One of the things that separates the armatures from the pros is knowing when to capitalize on this genetic trait.

Most cool season grasses, such as fescues, bluegrasses, ryegrass, etc. have a taller recommended mowing than some warm season grasses. For cool season grasses, mowing height will play an important role in grass survival. For example, fescue's minimum mowing height is 2 inches. (Mowing below that harms the grass.) However, fescue maintained at 3 to 4 inches will survive extended heat and drought better than lower cut fescue. This is partly because the root depth of 4 inch maintained fesuce will be deeper than fescue maintained at 2 inches.

There are exceptions to the height/root rule. Where specific grass species are designed to be maintained at low cutting heights, then cut at the recommended height. With these grasses, the lower cutting height plays a more important role. If the recommended height is 1 inch, as is the case for some improved bluegrass species as well as species of bermuda and zoysia, then you should mow at that height. (These are only a partial example.) Allowing centipede grass to be maintained above its recommended mowing height will weaken the grass.

When a taller mowing height will benefit the grass, always take advantage of it. It cost nothing to mow higher. Knowing how to maintain your grass in the most effective manner will differentiate you from the average homeowner. Become a Lawn Care Academy pro. Everything you need is here.

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Happy 4th of July!!

I, and everyone at Lawn Care Academy, would like to wish you all a safe and happy 4th of July.

Please pray for our nation. We are the only nation on earth that can declare with certainty and as an understanding that this is our foundation: "One Nation Under God with Liberty and Justice for All". One nation under the leadership and authority of God is what our founding fathers realized was the only path to becoming a great and successful nation. May all who worship the True and Living God honor Him with us.

Remember these two things: Freedom is not free. If you do not know the U.S. constitution and the rights and liberties this wonderful document grants us, you will probably not notice when those liberties are taken away.

Grace and peace to you all.

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Three Reasons for Maintaining Sharp Mower Blades

Ever since the ancient discovery that metal can be shaped into a fine cutting tool, someone also had to learn how to keep it sharp. It didn't take much to figure out that sharp blades cut easier than dull blades. However, with turfgrass and mower blades, the philosophy of maintaining sharp blades goes beyond simply the ease of cutting.

Below are three reasons to keep blades sharp:

• First: People don't think if it in these terms, but cutting grass actually causes an injury to the grass. Sharp blades make smoother cuts that heal quickly and evenly. Dull mower blades tear the grass leaving jagged cuts. These jagged cuts turn brown taking away from the appearance of the grass.
• Second: Many grass diseases first infect the grass from an opening in the grass blade. Jagged cuts from dull mower blades offer the perfect opportunity for susceptible diseases to enter the grass. Smooth cuts seal off the blade so it is harder for certain diseases to enter.
• Third: Certain grass species, such as ryegrass, are exceptionally tough and difficult to cut with dull mower blades. Even with moderately sharp blades, it still has the tendency to tear the grass. Maintaining sharp blades will ensure that those grasses will be cut smoothly. Similarly, very think growing grass, such as zoysia for example, will bog the mower down if the blades are too dull to easily cut through it. You will discover that mulching mowers will find it easier to mulch the grass with sharp blades as well.

Be sure to scroll down and read the blog on how to sharpen rotary mower bladdes. Thank you for visiting Lawn Care Academy website.

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Developing A Lawn Fertilization Program

Behind every beautiful lawn is a good lawn fertilization program. Knowing how much fertilizer to apply is just as important as knowing when to apply it.

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"Free" Season Pass to Silver Dollar City in Branson, Missouri

This is the 50th anniversary of Silver Dollar City in Branson, Missouri and they are giving away free Season passes. That's right, a free season pass to Silver Dollar City, America's favorite Amusement Park.

How do you get it? It must be your 50th birthday this year or your 50th anniversary to get it. It doesn't matter what day of the year the birthday or anniversary falls on from January 1 to December 31. If one of those two things occur this year, then this is what you do. As you enter the park, go to the ticket booth and show your ID. You are issued a season pass on the spot. How do I know? It is my 50th birthday this year and I got my free season pass.

Even if you don't have a 50th birthday this year, Silver Dollar City is a great, family friendly, amusement park with great rides and shows. It is located in one of the most beautiful areas of the country, so you can't go wrong. The drive to the park is amazing, with thick forests and lots of hills. With the economy, many near-by hotels are offering great discount prices as well.

Remember, for great lawn care advice for any situation, be sure to click on the Lawn Care Academy link provided.

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Summer Fertilization of Cool Season Grasses

Today is the second day of summer. For many areas around the country temperatures are above 90 degrees already. This is even true for the upper half of the U.S. where cool season grasses dominate.

Cool season grasses, such as fescue, bluegrass, bentgrass, and ryegrass struggle in the heat of summer. This is a normal summer response. A few examples of how they respond to high heat are as follows:

• Cool season grasses, as the name indicates, thrive best in cooler weather. These grasses tend to go dormant during high heat periods, especially without supplemental watering.
• Depending on how they are cared for, some varieties tend to lose color becoming a paler green.
• These high heat responses, as well as other reponses, are because they are unable to produce the extra energy needed to maintain maximum growth. This has nothing to do with a lack of fertilizer, but rather it has to do with genetics. These responses in consistently hot summer weather is one reason why they grow best in the shorter summers of the northern half of the U.S.

Fertilizing Cool Season Grasses In Summer

As far as fertilization of cool season grasses go, you need to proceed with caution. Use organic fertilizers or low nitrogen, slow release fertilizer at most. Some experts recommend putting no fertilizer down in summer. At Lawn Care Academy, we recommend putting down an organic fertilizer. This feeds the grass slowly as well as feeding the billions of beneficial microorganisms in the soil.

Remember, while putting down a high nitrogen fertilizer will increase growth and color, it will do it at the expense of the grass. Cool season grass simply cannot produce enough energy necessary to excel in hot weather.

For more information on maintaining cool season grasses in summer, click on the link provided.

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Photo Series: Understanding Your Camera's Light Metering Systems

Cameras have come a long way in recent years. Your camera's built-in light meters is very sophisticated and is a great asset in taking great shots. In older cameras, the meter would take an average of all the light and tones in a scene. You were lucky to get a photo that looked exactly as it did when looking at it through your eyes.

These days most cameras have multiple options for metering light with greater accuracy. To get the best quality shot, it is important to know how your light meter works.

• Matrix Meters: Different manufacturers may call it by a different name, but it is basically the same thing. Imagine your photo is divided up into small equally sized squares around 50 to 100 or so. Instead of metering the light from a scene as a single unit, matrix meters take multiple reading throughout the scene for a more accurate reading. I believe my Olympus has 49 and some Nikons have over 80.
• Center Weighted Metering: This places the center of the photo as the most important and places the highest degree of accuracy on metering that portion. For example, when photographing a bright flower against a dark background, the flower is the most important. With center weighted metering, the background tones are not measured equally or averaged into the photo equally and will remain darker while accurately metering the flower. In contrast, if you used a matrix meter in this situation, it would have included the background tones as equally important as the center and the photo may have come out too dark.
• Spot Meters: Spot meters read the smallest portion of a scene, thus the name "spot". It has the most limited use because it exposes only a small part of the overall picture.

  However, there are times when it is needed. You can zero in on a very small part of the scene that you have decided should be emphasized the most.

Understanding light and tones, in photography is called "exposure", and can be very complex. However, it begins by understanding how your camera operates and how to use those features to your advantage. Happy Shooting!!

Be sure to check out Lawn Care Academy for helpful lawn care advice.

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Suppression of Grass Diseases with Sound Cultural Practices

A healthy lawn resists grass diseases better than an unhealthy one. Applying a few important maintenance practices will strengthen your lawn’s resistance to disease.

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Introduction to Lawn Grass Diseases

Grass diseases can devastate a lawn. Knowledge of how they develop combined with using cultural practices that discourage them will go a long way in preventing diseases.

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Photo Series: Photographing Your Garden in Bright Sunlight

The sun is shining brightly without a cloud in the sky, the water is glistening off the pond surface, and butterflies are busy checking out the flowers. This is a perfect time to photograph the garden, right? It can be if you follow a few helpful suggestions.

Since most cameras struggle to capture images accurately in bright sunlight, a few tricks need to be employed to get a good shot. Here are a few below.

If you and are photographing a flower in bright sunlight, use a fast shutter speed and small aperature, take a shot and check the LCD in the shade, so it can be seen more accurately. Increase or decrease shutter speed as necessary for different results.

In bright conditions, try positioning an umbrella over the flower before taking the shot. If it is not too bright, using a filter over the lens may be enough to bring out the correct tones. Filters come in many different shades and colors that give effects similar to what we experience with a pair of sunglasses.

Many photographers, in bright light situations, know their camera will not be able to capture the full tonal range of highlights and shadows accurately. As a result, they often need to make choices about what to expose, the brighter areas of the scene or the darker areas.

By allowing the automatic exposure system of the camera to focus in on a brighter area, darker areas of the shot may be even darker. By zeroing in on the darker areas the brighter areas may be washed out. This is where creativity comes in.

For example, it may be that your purpose is to highlight the sparkling reflection of the sun off of your backyard pond or waterfall. This will most likely make the vegetation around the water much darker. You may find the effect desirable causing the water to be the focus of the shot. Then by increasing the shutter speed slightly will reduce the brightness of the water. By experimenting with different shutter speeds and aperture settings from different angles and positions, you can learn exactly where to set your camera settings to get the desired shot.

If nothing works in bright light, try waiting for a cloud to come over. The shadow from a thick cloud creates softer lighting. Don't forget about the cameras "scene modes". After shooting in scene mode, check your photo's history to see what shutter speed and aperture the scene mode used to get the shot so you can recreate it later without the scene mode.

Remember, practice and experimentation is the only way to get to know your camera and how it will operate in different situations. Every camera is slightly different in how it sees and captures the image. With digital cameras, it cost nothing to practice. Happy shooting!

For help with lawn care problems and in learning and understanding the newest techinques, be sure to visit Lawn Care Academy by clicking on the link.

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Calculating Turfgrass Fertilizer Rates

Understanding fertilizer rates can be confusing. Knowing how much to put down to fit almost any particular situation is not hard if you know what calculations to use.

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Understanding Organic Biostimulants

Organic biostimulants include seaweed extract (kelp), plant hormones, humic acid, and other organic materials. Can they do what manufacturers claim? Read and see.

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Photo Series: Choosing the Background for Your Garden Photos

What is a photo background? Simply put, it is the part of the photo behind the main subject. If your subject is a flower, the background can be other flowers, green vegetation, a wood fence, etc. If you are an experienced photographer, you know how important the background is to a good photo. A cluttered background can ruin a photo regardless of how good the subject is.

Depending on the photo's main subject, the type of background and how you position it behind the subject will actually be one of the most important aspects of the photo. For example, a bright orange flower positioned in front of a dark green background will force the flower to stand out even more. If your camera has the ability to change aperature settings, try opening the aperture wider to cause the background to become blurry. You may need to increase the shutter speed to compensate for the wider aperature. This way the only part of the photo in focus will be the subject. It takes a little practice, but you can get the hang of it fairly quickly.

Experiment taking photos from different angles. Try getting down to eye level with the subject instead of just from a standing position. Walk around looking at every angle visualizing what the shot will look like from different positions. Each position will place the subject in a different light and different background. With a little effort you will discover what looks best in each situation.

Have fun taking pictures, and don't forget to visit the link provided for great advice for your lawn care needs.

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How to Take Great Photos of Your Lawn or Garden

Have you ever tried to photograph your garden only to somehow lose the colorful brilliance? The blue sky may have been washed out or the colorful flowers looked faded. This is one of the most common problems associated with outdoor photography and one of the most common mistakes of amateur photographers. This is what may have happened.

In a nutshell, modern cameras are still not yet close to possessing the ability of the human eye at accurately capturing the range of lights and darks in a single image on a sunny day. While there are a few tricks experienced photographers use, most photos will still have problems on bright days. You may be able to capture a blue sky, but the darker colors will be underexposed. Or, you may be able to focus on the darker areas of the scene, but the lighter colors will be overexposed. It is like trying to wrap a short string around a large ball. If the string represents the range of light the camera can capture, some of the ball will be covered by the string, while other parts will always remain uncovered. Here is an easy way to correct it.

Fix the Problem by Shooting in Softer Light

Soft light can be morning light during or shortly after sunrise. It can also be the light in late evening or right before dark. Soft light can also be defined as the light of an overcast day or the light under a shade tree.

Even in professional studios, soft light is what is created by photographers to achieve the best results. The only difference is the time factor. You may have less time to get your shots before the sun rises too high and the light becomes too harsh. The advantage is that no matter how hard a studio tries, studio light rarely equals the beauty of natural sunlight.

So wake up, grab your camera, and get out in the cool air and get some shots. You will enjoy your garden more and have better photos to share with your friends and family.

What's Wrong - My White Oak Leaves are Turning Brown

Its a bad year for Jumping Oak Gall. What is that you say? Read on for the answer.

There may be a lot of different reasons why white oak leaves may turn brown in late spring or early summer. However, in Missouri and elsewhere, 2010 is proving to be a bad year for jumping oak gall.

Jumping oak gall is caused by a tiny stingless wasp that deposits its larva on the underside of oak leaves. Triggered by the larva, the leaf forms a "gall" (a abnormal growth of leaf tissue) around the larva as a means of defense. The gall become the protective shell while the wasp is developing inside it. These galls will eventually fall from the leaf onto the ground. The term "jumping" in Jumping Leaf Gall is so named because the fallen galls twitch and jerk like a Mexican Jumping Bean due to the activity of the larva within.

Description of Damaged Leaves

If the galls have fallen, the oak leaves will have a brown scar where the gall used to be. There could be numerous galls on a single leaf. In severe cases, the leaves will turn brown and fall off. Damage often occurs in the crown, or the upper part of the tree. While wasp damage occurs only in spring, but the affects can often be seen well into the summer.

What to Do About It

Generally, the problem is not life threatening to the tree and intervention is usually not required. You will find that the wasps damage is somewhat cyclic. Observable damage to leaves may occur for one to three years before natural pests and parasites to the wasps will cause wasp populations to fall to acceptable numbers.

Since damage to oak and other trees can be caused by a number of different things, such as disease or other insects, it is always wise to positively identify the cause of the damage. Arborists specialize in trees problems and can help identify any problem. In Missouri, the department of conservation forest pathologist can answer questions at no charge, but do not provide treatment for home trees. Many other states have a similar program and some provide newsletters that keep the public aware of current problems.

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Manure as Fertilizer - Uses for Compost Manure and Raw Manure

Find complete information for using manure as fertilizer for backyard gardens and lawns. See how compost manure and raw manure can build healthy soil and increase fertility.

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Using Raw Manure on Backyard Gardens

Livestock manure is a valuable component of many composts. Composted manure is what many people prefer, but for large gardens it can get costly. What about using raw manure?

The thought of using raw manure is very objectionable to some people. For city folk or for those who have never lived on or near a farm may find it especially disturbing. I understand exactly why you would think that way. But are your worries justified? Whether you realize it or not, many farms in every country use raw manure for growing vegetables. In fact, it has been used for centuries. You may be surprised to discover how many backyard gardens have had the soil enhanced with a truck load of manure obtained from a nearby barn (with the farmers approval, of course).

The main reasons are that it works, it is cheap, and is easily obtainable. Many large farming operations routinely add manure to their soil to replace organic matter and improve nutrients. There are even trucks especially designed for evenly distributing manure over farmland. (They are too big for homeowner use.) However, when using raw manure there are some guidelines you should observe. Here are a few.

Manure is best if it is rototilled into the soil. According to the National Organic Program those who use raw manure for vegetables should follow the 90/120 day rule.

• If the edible part of a plant touches the soil there should be a length of 120 days between the time the manure enters the soil to harvest of the vegetable.
• If the edible part of a plant does not touch the soil there should be a wait of 90 days between the time the manure enters the soil until harvest of the vegetable.

Manure breaks down in the soil and the time of wait gives ample time for microorganisms to do their work.

Remember that raw manure does not necessarily mean "fresh from the animal". It can also mean aged and dried manure as well. Aged manure can have more of an earthy smell and is less objectionable to work with.

For a detailed page describing complete information on how to work with raw and composted manure for both lawn and garden use, please watch for the upcoming page in a few days.

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Bradford Pear Trees and Fire blight

For many years Bradford Pear trees were among the most popular selling ornamental trees. Their medium growth height and upright growing branches make a tree that can easily fit in many lawn situations. They have become favorites along driveways, sidewalks, and store fronts as well.

However, the average life span for Bradford Pears is only 15 to 20 years. After that they begin to break apart and deteriorate. The limbs are weakly attached at the truck that can break easily with a strong wind. As the tree matures and limb size increases, the risk of breakage is even greater.

On the up side, Bradford Pears are usually fairly disease resistant and are not as susceptible to diseases that plague a few other pear varieties. With that said, Fire Blight has been on the increase with Bradfords. I have treated many pears in recent years, but fortunately they were treated soon after the disease was observed. With my experince in treating pears, when the treatment as performed properly, it always took several years before the disease returned. I received a call last week to once again look at several Bradford Pears at my local Library that were treated for fire blight about four years ago. Only about three in a dozen trees are showing signs of infection.

Fire Blight is a bacterial tree disease. It kills the leaves and turns them dark brown, but they do not fall off the tree. The limbs of the affected leaves will also become darkened as the limbs dieback. If left alone, the infection spreads and will eventually kill the tree.

The limbs must be cut back beyond the infection and the equipment sterilized after each cut to prevent reinfection in another part of the tree. After the tree has be trimmed to remove contaminated branches, the tree can be sprayed with an anti-bacterial solution labeled for Fire Blight.

Bacterial Leaf Scorch is another disease that can affect Bradford Pears. It turns the leaves a yellow color, but with B.L.S., the leaves fall from the tree. Many people naturally think it is not getting enough water, but after watering and fertilizing, it usually gets worse. It can be successfully treated if caught in time.

Crabgrass has Appeared and What To Do Now.

I was out looking over my garden when I saw the first crabgrass plants of 2010 growing in the bare dirt. They were still only a few inches tall with only four or five one inch blades. I live in Southern Missouri, so if you are in the Southern U.S. they are probably adult plants already. Northern states may or may not have them yet.

The first crabgrass weeds will germinate from seed where the grass is thin or nonexistent in direct sunlight or near sidewalks, driveways, roads, etc. Seeds will germinate in these areas first because areas of bare ground or the soil near cement surfaces will heat up faster.

What to Do Now to Stop Crabgrass

If you haven't seen any crabgrass yet, it is still okay to put down a preemergent if you haven't done so. The preemergent with the trade name of "Dimension" (Chemical name: dithiopyr) is the only preemergent that is able to kill crabgrass after the seed have germinated, but only up to the seedling stage. All others must be applied before the seeds germinate or they will not work. If you only see a few crabgrass weeds right now, apply dimension if you are not planning to overseed in the fall. This will prevent any other seeds from germinating in areas where the soil has not heated up enough yet. Preemergents can be purchased as stand alone products without the usually accompaning fertilizer. While easily available to commercial applicators, they can sometimes be difficult for homeowners to find.

For growing plants, apply a crabgrass herbicide as soon as possible. Once they are growing, they will spread quickly. Look for products that contain MSMA or DSMA. There are other products as well. Many grassy weed herbicides will clearly describe "crabgrass control" or something similar on the front label.

There is also the herbicide "quinclorac" under the trade name "Drive". Once sold only to commercial operators, it is now available to homeowners and sold by Ortho under the name "Weed-B-Gon MAX Plus Crabgrass Control Ready To Use". It contains other ingredients to help control broadleaf weeds as well.

At this point, acting quickly will be the best way of controlling crabgrass once it has started.

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Results: Survival Ability of Major Southern Turfgrasses on Non-Irrigated Sites

This report is a must read if you are interested in planting a drought hardy grass is the Southern U.S. or elsewhere in the world with a similar climate.

Recently I read a report by Dr. James A. McAfee and Ron Leps from the Williamson County Extension Service. The report described the survival ability of 11 major turfgrasses over a three year period when planted in non-irrigated sites where rain was the only source of water. The location of the experiment was in Central Texas where summer temperatures often exceed 100 degrees and is capable of extreme drought.

The 11 grass species were as follows:

Common bermudagrass, Tifway 419 Bermudagrass, Baby Bermudagrass, Palmetto St. Augustinegrass, Raleigh St. Augustinegrass, Floratam St. Augustinegrass, 609 Buffalograss, Top Gun Buffalograss, JaMur Zoysiagrass, Crown Zoysiagrass, and El Toro Zoysiagrass.

Understanding the Rating System

Each grass species received a percentage rating of 0 to 100. On this scale, a grass receiving a 0 (zero) percent rating meant the grass did not survive the three year test period. A rating of 100 percent meant the grass species survived completely without damage.

Below are the results of the three year study listed in order from the highest percent of survival to the lowest.

• 609 Buffalograss - 98 Percent Survival
• Top Gun Buffalograss - 85 Percent Survival
• JaMur Zoysiagrass - 70 Percent Survival
• Crown Zoysiagrass - 40 Percent Survival
• Common Bermudagrass - 35 Percent Survival
• Tifway 419 Bermudagrass - 25 Percent Survival
• Baby Bermudagrass - 5 Percent Survival
• El Toro Zoysiagrass - 3 Percent Survival
• Palmetto St. Augustinegrass - 2 Percent Survival
• Floratam St. Augustinegrass - 1 Percent Survival
• Raleigh St. Augustinegrass - 0 Percent Survival

Important Note: The report suggests that Floratam St. Augustine would have probably performed better except for an unusual winter freeze that injured the grass. Before the freeze, Floratam was performing quite well. Had there not been a freeze, Floratam may have ranked third among the different grasses.

Other test results were also recorded, such as how well the grass maintained its color. While Buffalgrass and Zoysiagrass performed best in survivability, they were the first to lose their color as temperatures rose and without supplemental irrigation. For some people, grass color is a small trade off to keep from having to water manually and to maintain drought hardiness status.

The entire report can be found at

http://www.theturfgrassgroup.com/documents/williamson%20county%20-%20non-irrigated%20turf%20study.pdf

You may need to copy and paste the address into your browser for viewing.

Click on the link provided for more information about warm season grasses and specific information on maintaining them.

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Organics Excel in Hot Summer Months

Natural organic lawn fertilizers are at their best in the hot days of summer. Why? In part because they are very forgiving and can be used liberally without fear of burning or even watering in.

Most all natural organics need soil microbes to break the organic material down into elements the roots can use. Soil microorganims are temperature sensitive. The hotter it gets the more active soil microbes become.

In addition to fertilizing the grass, organics feed the billions of soil microorganisms that are essential for healthy plants. Unseen by the naked eyes is a battle taking place in the soil. For example, pathogenic fungi, present in most soils, are seeking to invade grasses and plants. They are not evil, it is just what they do. Certain beneficial microbes feed upon the pathogens and keep them under control. With unhealthy siol, plants are more easily overcome by diseases.

When this happens, people often reach for the fungicides to control the disease. Using them too frequently or forgetting to alternate between fungicides with different modes of action can result in the appearance of plant diseases you previously had no problems with. Like an antibiotic, fungicides have been known to suppress other beneficial microbes that were effectively keeping things in balance.

In limited cases, another possible downside to organic materials is that they are very slow release, regardless of how hot it is. Adding more material or organic fertilizer will add more nutrients, but it will not decrease the amount of time it takes to break them down. All break down at different rates, with most leaning toward the slow side. Poultry manure breaks down the fastest, while composted sewage sludge (Milorganite) can take all summer.

Can the slow release be a problem? Not necessarily for most lawn grasses. It depends on the nutrient content of the organic material or fertilizer and the needs of your grass. High maintenance grasses, such as sports turf or high nitrogen grasses, such as bermudagrass may need more nitrogen than some organic material can provide. Using professional organics supplemented with other forms of nitrogen will meet the need.

Lawn Care Academy's page on Understanding Organics and Organic Fertilization will explain in detail how to get the most from your organics.

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Green Movement and Science Often Clash

The green movement has certainly helped stimulate the development of eco-friendly products, but it still has a long way to go. any organic fertilizers are on the market that actually work and are economical to use, organic pest control products are another story. Most are not as effective as chemical products and any that are equal are still far beyond the horizon.

I just read an article from a major news channel talking about eco-friendly steps to take for a beautiful lawn. Using "dish soap" for insect control and "vinegar" for weeds. Sure, both of these products have a certain usefulness in the landscape, but to suggest they are stand alone products that will solve your lawn problems is like spitting on the grass and declaring it has been watered.

There is hope, however. Insect growth regulators, such as Mach 2 (halofenozide) are eco-friendly products that are targeted toward grubs and other soil insects that molt. They are not harmful to beneficial insects. Mach 2 mimics the molting hormone and causes a premature molt, which kills the insect. Horticultural oils are also safe, but are more useful for trees, shrubs, vegetables, and above ground insects than for turf destroying, soil insects.

Weed control is more difficult. Vinegar is a non-selective product that burns the above ground portion of grass and weeds. Most weeds will grow back quickly. Weeds that reproduce from rhizomes, roots, bulbs, nutlets, stolons, etc. will not be controlled. Many weeds are extremely aggressive and attempts at pulling them only causes them to multiply faster. The more honest green-only websites will tell you to lower your standards and accept a certain amount of weeds. They talk of getting back to nature, while enjoying the diversity of weedy grasses. Sounds too much like Zen to me.

You don't have to settle for that. There is no shame in a beautiful lawn. Many safe products get a bad rap because of groups that want all chemical products banned.

What can we do? Contact you local representative and tell them how you feel. Not all politicians are weasels who only care about getting reelected. Do it before your rights are gone. From a lawn care perspective, develop good maintenance practices. Overseeding for a thick turf will cut down on the majority of weeds. Spot spraying weeds is better and more responsible than spraying the entire lawn. In addition, some weeds are poisonous. It is actually a misdemeanor in some areas to have certain weeds and not kill them. Weeds lower property values, harbor insects, and deplete nutrients. Thorny weeds are harmful to adults, kids, and pets.

On the up side, grass produces as much oxygen as trees and absorbs a lot of carbon dioxide.

Do not give up on organics, but use what is available to you. Someday the weeds themselves may be protected and pulling them will make you a criminal. Sad, yes, but these days anything can happen.

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White Powder on My Grass

One of the more common diseases to affect grass and many other plants is Powdery Mildew. It is easily recognized because the grass appears to be covered with talcum powder. The most common turf species to be affected is Kentucky Bluegrass. Fescues and other varieties can get it, but are generally not as susceptible as bluegrass.

What is Powdery Mildew?

Powdery mildew is a fungus that breeds and multiplies on the surface of the grass. It will remain dormant in the absence of a susceptible host. With a susceptible host and the right environmental conditions enormous amount of spores can multiply on the surface giving it a powdery look. For identification, the mildew easily comes off on your hands or fingers when brushing the grass. Powdery mildew should not be confused with "Rust Disease" that produces a copper colored fungus that also comes off easily onto your hands.

Will Powdery Mildew Harm the Grass?

It should be noted that powdery mildew only affects the grass blades and not the crown or roots. However, a thick coating will block the sunlight and prevent photosynthesis which weakens the blade and can cause leaf blade dieback. Most cases will not cause extensive damage, but at most will only thin the grass. Severe cases may cause more severe thinning.

Conditions that Cause Outbreaks

• Fungus growth will be greatest in shaded areas. The most common areas will be under large shade trees and the shady side of houses or buildings.
• Areas with low air circulation encourages the disease. Low hanging branches hinders air circulation along with sheltered or blocked in areas.
• High relative humidity during periods of no rain will stimulate fungus growth. Dry grass during humid,hot, and dry conditions will speed the secretion of sugary fluids that collect on the leaf surface. This fluid initially feeds the fungus.

How to Prevent or Treat Powdery Mildew

Professional turf managers will hose down the grass surface each day during hot, dry periods. This will wash the grass blades clean of any sugars. Homeowners will benefit from this as well.

Treating Powdery Mildew

Many fungicides are labeled for use against Powdery mildew. For an organic approach, the University of Rhode Island suggests mixing 1 tablespoon baking soda and 2.5 tablespoons light horticultural oil with a gallon of water. It was confirmed on roses as a cure, but it has not yet been confirmed on turfgrass. It is a safe product so it is worth a try.

To see profiles of other grass diseases, click on the link provided.

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Centipede Grass Lawns

Centipede grass is a low maintenance, low fertility and slow growing turf grass. Its adaptation zone extends from Florida and along the coastal regions of the south as far as central Texas.

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When Improving Clay Soil Requires Major Renovation

Sometimes improving clay soil requires major renovation. Here are some important tips to consider if you decide to do it yourself or even when hiring someone else.

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Tall Fescue Grass

Tall fescue is an important cool season grass with many desirable characteristics. It is well known for its dark green color, wear resistance and heat tolerance and the choice of many homeowners.

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Zoysia Grass Lawns

Zoysia grass originated in the orient and was brought here in the 1800’s. It is a highly versatile and beautiful grass that can be used on everything from sports fields and golf courses to home lawns.

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Advice For Top Dressing Lawns

Step by step advice for top dressing lawns. Top dressing enriches soil, increases beneficial microbes and helps build a better soil structure.

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How to Get a Striped or Checkerboard Lawn

We have all seen the mowing lines on a pro ball field or golf course. If you would like that as well then continue reading to find out how.

Stripes are created when the grass if forced to lay over in one direction. The sun reflects a different shade of green depending on where you are standing and the direction the grass is laying. Therefore, you get the light/dark striped look.

The easiest way to do this is to attach a lawn roller behind your mower. They can be purchased at many lawn and garden stores. A lawn roller is simply a large metal or plastic cylinder. It has a plug so water can be added for additional weight. In this case, the roller can be used without water, unless it is extremely light. While you are cutting the grass, the roller attached to the back is pushing the grass over. On the return path, as you cut the next strip of grass, the roller will push the grass over in the other direction. This back and forth cutting and rolling will give you that striped lawn.

It takes some practice to get the lines straight. Larger lawns will often stand out the most, but any size lawn will work.

Here are a few thing to consider as well.

• Cut your grass frequently. Don't wait until it must be mowed because it is too tall. This way the discharged grass doesn't interfere with the look of the grass. Tall grass, especially if you have a side discharge on the mower, will cover the stripes with thrown grass. Mulching mowers are better than side discharge for the purpose of making stripes.
• It will take some practice to get the lines straight. For the perfectionist, it may require learning a few tricks of the trade for a better look. They are easy to learn and most can be learned from experience.
• Professional mowers have a roller attached to the back that lifts up. This way the stripes are where you want them and no where else. A few companies are now making home versions of mowers with a roller already attached. I am not sure if they are on a hydrolic system, so the roller can be lifted up.

• For the checkerboard look: Mow the grass as usual with the roller attached. Then mow your grass again in a perpendicular direction. This is twice the work, but it is the only way to get that checkerboard pattern.

Have fun while you experiment with all sorts of shapes and patterns.

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Amazing Mycorrhiza Fungus for Healthier Plants

The word "fungus" usually conjures the worst thoughts. Mycorrhiza fungus is different. It is a naturally occurring beneficial soil fungus. It is so important to plant life that most plants would suffer or die without it. However, with the poor quality soil in many lawns, mycorrhiza amounts may not be at optimum levels. Here is what it does.

What Mycorrhiza does

Mycorrhiza forms a symbiotic relationship by attaching to the feeder roots of plants. In exchange for a small amount of energy taken as food, the mycorrhiza performs a great benefit. After attaching to roots, it starts multiplying by forming long strings that can be far reaching into the soil. The fungus actually draws nutrients out of the soil and channels them back to the feeder roots to be taken up by the plant. With the presence of mycorrhiza, the nutrient volume removed from the soil can be easily doubled compared to what the roots could do by themselves.

How to Add Additional Mycorrhiza

Mycorrhiza is especially helpful and probably most known for use in establishing young trees. However all plants need it. The fungus can be purchased in many forms. Commercial nurseries, landscapers, gardeners, and homeowners use mycorrhiza to benefit plants. Nurseries prefer the gel form as a root dip for bare root plantings. It can also be purchased as a powder or in ready to use form. With powder, simply add the required amount of water and sprinkle around the root ball or drip line of trees. For established trees, it can also be injected into the soil around the drip line of trees. Some bio-stimulants, humic acid, and other products may include it as an additional product benefit. Check the label and see.

Since it multiplies in the soil, it usually does not need to be frequently reapplied. Every couple years for perennials is fine. The exceptions may be if soil conditions exist that discourage the growth of mycorrhiza. When planting and maintenance, make mycorrhiza a regular part of your program for healthier plants.

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How to Sharpen Rotary Lawn Mower Blades

Rotary mowers are the most common mowers used by homeowners today. Blades need to be sharp. While dull blades will still cut due to the strong power from the engine, it is not good for the grass. Dull blades tear the grass leaving brown and shredded tips. Shredded tips are harder for the grass to heal and allow easy and broader access for disease pathogens to enter and cause problems. Sharp cuts heal faster and look better.

Below are step by step instructions for removing and sharpening blades.

Important: Be very careful about using an air driven or electric drill with an attached socket wrench to remove the bolt. If the blade is not blocked and the drill turns the blade quickly in the wrong direction, (the direction the blades spin when mowing) the spinning can actually start the engine.

Secure the blade in a vise. The fastest way to sharpen the blade is to use a bench grinder or a hand-held grinder. Try not to overheat the metal. It can weaken it and the blades will get dull faster.

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Introduction to Warm Season Grass

Warm season grass is the name given to a number of grass species that thrive best in warmer climates. The most popular U.S species is Bermuda grass with zoysia grass coming in second.

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Buffalo Grass Lawns

Buffalo grass is the only turf grass native to the U.S. The newest varieties make beautiful lawns that are drought, disease and insect resistant.

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Bermudagrass Lawns

Bermudagrass is the most commonly used warm season grass in the U.S. There are improved common varieties that can be started from seed and hybrid varieties that must be started vegetatively.

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Improving Grass Root Growth

One of the greatest factors that help lower fertilizer use while increasing efficiency is in improving grass root growth. Following a few simple techniques will greatly improve grass health.

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Benefits of Plant Growth Regulators and What They Can Do For You

Plant growth regulators have come a long way. Learn about product and how creative uses can benefit your lawn and reduce maintenance.

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Prepare for Warm Weather Weeds

Now that we are fully in mid-spring, the cool weather weeds are hardening off and dying back. Don't put away the herbicide just yet, warm weather weeds are already here and are beginning to spread.

Most weeds are temperature sensitive and will only thrive within a certain range. As early spring gives way to warmer weather a whole different set of weeds germinate or emerge from dormancy, depending on the type.

Not to be the bearer of bad news, but there is still another set of weeds that will emerge in hot summer weather.

What do we do? Remember, the best weed control is a thick, healthy lawn. Weeds are opportunists. They will take advantage of any weaknesss in the turf. Bare spots, thin grass, or grass that is weakened from improper care, will allow for weeds to start and spread.

Improper care can be mowing the lawn too low, over or under fertilization, too little water, soil compaction, etc. While weed herbicides are an extremely helpful addition to your lawn maintenance, unless the problems are fixed that allowed the weeds to begin, you will likely continue to have weeds every year, regardless of how many herbicides you use.

Remember, nature doesn't produce beautiful lawn, people do. Never fear, Lawn Care Academy has all the information you need to create a great looking lawn.

Click on the link for more information about lawn weeds and control methods.

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