The Lawn Care Academy Blog

Looking for the latest lawn care tips and trends? You have come to the right place. You will find detailed information for everything from zoysia to fescue and organics to conventional fertilizers and much more.

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Introduction to Turf Pests

Turf pests, such as insects as well as small animals that dig for insects, can quickly damage your lawn. Knowledge is your first defense against these pests.

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Getting Rid of Fleas

Getting rid of fleas can be a daunting task even when done properly. Success will always depend on your chosen methods and materials used.

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Improving Clay Soil

Many lawns have problems with clay soil. The best solution for excessive clay is to amend the soil with organic matter. This fact sheet will help understand how.

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Choosing the Right Types of Herbicides for Cool Weather

Cool Spring weather brings cool weather weeds. Some types of herbicides are formulated to work effectively in cool spring weather, while other formulations are designed specifically for hot weather. Below are a few helpful steps for choosing the right product.

The first thing you should do is to identify the types of weeds that are in your lawn. It is important to select a herbicide that will control your weeds. Keep in mind that herbicides with a single active ingredient will only control a few different weeds. Herbicides that contain multiple active ingredients will control the largest variety of weeds. The herbicide label will identify the weeds that product will control.

Not all types of herbicides will work best in cool weather. The most common ingredient in many formulations is 2,4-D (2,4-Dichlorophenoxyacetic Acid). 2,4-D comes in two formulations: one for warm weather and one for cool weather. The cool weather formula contains Ester (2,4-D Ester). The warm weather formula will contain Amine Salt. Choose the Ester formulation for early spring weeds.

Remember that Ester becomes volitle as the weather warms and when used in hot weather. The vapor can damage leaves and kill flowers and small plants. As weather warms, switch to a warm weather herbicide.

Always read the label carefully and completely before opening the container. Be sure you have all the safety clothing and properly working equipment before using any chemical.

Click on the link for more help with choosing and using herbicides correctly and safely.

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All About Soil pH and Corrective materials

All plants have a preferred soil pH. This page offers sound advice on why the pH is important, how to check it, plus methods and materials for correctly adjusting soil pH

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Understanding Plant Growth Regulators

Plant growth regulators (PGRs) have been around for a long time, but are not well known outside the professional trade. What little homeowners do know about them is often misunderstood. Most people think of them as being only foliage growth retardants, but actually they perform many functions beyond slowing growth.

Some PGRs actually enhance stem growth. Other types are "fruit eliminators" that prevent production of fruit on trees including Sweet Gum. Other varieties offer better color enhanment, better root development, and reduce water and nutrient requirements.

Plant Growth Retardants

A dream of many homeowners is to apply something to the lawn that would prevent their grass from growing so they never have to mow again. Although there is currently nothing like that on the market, some products will slow grass growth to some degree. This is proving to be beneficial in many ways. However, PGRs will respond better on some plants and grasses than others, so there is no single perfect product.

Slowing growth is actually better than completely halted grass growth anyway. If a growth regulator stopped your grass from growing, then diseases or injuries would not grow out quickly. Any serious problems would take longer to heal.

A Few Uses for Plant Growth Regulators

• Some plant growth regulators containing mefluidide (Embark) are known to inhibit seedhead production on grasses. The professional golf industry uses mefluidide to severely slow or stop the seed growth of annual bluegrass, a common grassy weed. I would like to see how well it works on hindering seedhead production in buffalo grass lawns.
• Research is showing hopeful signs that PGR applied grasses require less water because of less growth. Australian studies reveal a water reduction by as much as 30 percent.
• Plant growth regulators have been used on trees with damaged roots where damage occurred from digging or by dozer work during home or lawn construction. The appropriate PGR slows the canopy growth, while forcing new root growth.
• Ethephon (Florel Brand) is used at the flowering stage to prevent unwanted fruit from apples, crabapples, oak, olive, sycamore, and more.

Types of Plant Growth Regulators

There are two basic types: Type 1 and Type 2. Although the classification of PGRs is changing, they still are listed under current classification names.

Type 1: This type is generally sprayed on the plant surface and is foliarly absorbed. When used on grasses, they are probably best known for their ability to stop seedhead production.

Type 2 PGRs are generally root or crown absorbed and are often applied as soil drenches and some can be sprayed. These are best known for their ability to prevent the elongation of plant tissue. When used properly they can reduce your amount of mowing. When used on trimmed bushes, they will greatly slow regrowth, so less trimming is needed each year.

Make sure you only apply plant growth regulators on plants the product is labeled for. Read the label completely before use and follow all instructions.

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Watering a New Lawn the Right Way

The method we use for watering a new lawn is critical to its growth and survival. This page will give valuable tips to help ensure great results.

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Calculating Turfgrass Fertilizer Rates

Understanding fertilizer rates can be confusing. Knowing how much to put down to fit almost any particular situation is not hard if you know what calculations to use.

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How Grass Fertilizer Prevents Lawn Deterioration

Why is lawn fertilization important? See why the nutrients from grass fertilizer may be the only thing standing between a healthy, vigorous lawn and a lawn that is deteriorating.

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Photosynthesis - It Will Change Your View Of Lawn Care

Understanding the basics of photosynthesis will greatly refine your knowledge of lawn care. You will never look at your lawn the same way. .

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Kikuyu Grass Winter Damage

In professional circles, the subject of Kikuyu grass winter damage varies. The fact that it is debated proves that people have had different experiences with kikuyu grass freeze damage.

Winter damage usually appears as yellow grass that shows up in the spring. However, it will usually green up as the soil warms up later in the spring. Even in worst cases of frost damage, the stolons will survive without injury and the grass will begin regrowth in warmer weather.

Do not suspect kikuyu grass winter damage if the grass remains yellow after the soil has warmed considerably. Other reasons for yellowing grass is nutrient deficiency or disease (kikuyu yellows disease).

An application of fertilizer will solve the nutrient deficiency, but there is currently no cure for kikuyu yellows disease. The only recourse is to replant with a variety that is not susceptible to the disease.

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Soil Salinity Problems

High soil salinity known as salt-affected soils are common problems around the world. For most, standard treatments are easy to perform once the problems are understood.

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Centipede Grass Lawns

Centipede grass is a low maintenance, low fertility and slow growing turf grass. Its adaptation zone extends from Florida and along the coastal regions of the south as far as central Texas.

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St Augustine Grass

St Augustine grass is a favorite hot weather grass adapted to the coastal and southern regions of the U.S. from Florida to central Texas. Click here for information on maintenance and lawn care tips.

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Bermudagrass Lawns

Bermudagrass is the most commonly used warm season grass in the U.S. There are improved common varieties that can be started from seed and hybrid varieties that must be started vegetatively.

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Zoysia Grass Lawns

Zoysia grass originated in the orient and was brought here in the 1800’s. It is a highly versatile and beautiful grass that can be used on everything from sports fields and golf courses to home lawns.

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Introduction to Warm Season Grass

Warm season grass is the name given to a number of grass species that thrive best in warmer climates. The most popular U.S species is Bermuda grass with zoysia grass coming in second.

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Buffalo Grass Lawns

Buffalo grass is the only turf grass native to the U.S. The newest varieties make beautiful lawns that are drought, disease and insect resistant.

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Types of Herbicides - Organic and Chemical

There many different herbicides available for home use. This page lists products available with helpful advice for choosing the best one for your needs.

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Yellow and Purple Nutsedge

Yellow and purple nutsedge are summer perennial grass-like weeds. They are yellow-green in color with triangular shaped stems.

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WOW! The Newest Tips for Laying Down Sod

Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks? Have you heard about the newest tricks to laying down sod? It has always been taught that sod is best laid on bare, prepared ground, so the roots can grow into the soil. It seems like the old ways have been challenged.

In recent years professional companies have been laying down sod right over the top of existing grass. That's right, laid right on top of your existing grass. That means no herbicides to kill the old grass making it better for the environment. And the best part is it seems to work.

How does it work? The weight and downward pressure of the sod kills the old grass. Roots from the newly laid sod grow right through to the dirt and grow as normal. If I hadn't seen it I would not have believed it.

However, it is not without a few considerations. First, when laying down sod over existing grass, the thickness of the sod will raise your grass level by as much as a couple inches. This may be too high for some pop up sprinklers and may interfere with the water stream.

Second, be careful about laying sod over bermudagrass or a similar warm season grass. If any seeds or "runners" survive or are left intact in gaps or along edges of sidewalks, etc, you may see the grass reemerge.

Third, if your current grass has over a half an inch of thatch, remove the thatch first. If you don't, it may create problems for you later.

It may require more frequent watering at first to keep the sod from drying out.

Yes, maybe the old ways remain best, but the new way of laying down sod is here to stay. The new method is less expensive, requires less chemical use and is less work, so it requires less time for installation. With the current economy, the new method of laying sod seems to be preferred for those who know about it.

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The Effects of Pesticides and Fertilizers On Lawns

In today’s world, the effects of pesticides and fertilizers on home lawns are big topics. Studies show that grass structure and root system traps well over 90% of lawn pesticides.

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Common Summer Lawn Diseases

Lawn diseases can be a problem in any lawn. The following profiles will show you what they look like, what conditions accelerate their spread and how to treat them

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Fine Fescue grass

Fine fescue is a known for its exceptional shade and cold tolerance. Its primary range of adaptation is from the northern areas of the transition zone and into Canada.

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Kentucky Bluegrass

Kentucky bluegrass is one of the most popular of all the cool season lawn grasses in the U.S. It is a beautiful grass known for its uniformity, color, texture and density.

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When Improving Clay Soil Requires Major Renovation

Sometimes improving clay soil requires major renovation. Here are some important tips to consider if you decide to do it yourself or even when hiring someone else.

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Keeping your Water Garden Pond Ice Free

Does your water garden pond contain fish and aquatic plants? If so, you will need to keep ice from forming over the surface of the water.

If ice is allowed to form across the surface it will become a barrier to the oxygenization of pond water. If allowed to persist, your plants and fish could perish.

Methods of Keeping Your Pond Open

Probably the least expensive method to keeping the pond open is to place several floating balls on the surface. The balls could be anything from tennis balls to basketballs. However, the larger balls will catch more wind, which is a good thing. As the wind pushes the balls around it helps prevent the formation of ice.

A second method is to use a floating water garden pond heater. This may be especially necessary if you have a very cold blast of winter weather come through. After the purchase of the heater, the primary cost will be electricity. Try to find one that is thermostat controlled. It will only come on when the water temperature drops below the setting you choose.

Do Not Break Ice By Hitting It

If ice does form on your water garden pond do not try to break it by hitting it. The sound and shock waves that are created by the breaking ice can injure or kill fish.

Many years ago I remember shooting a small caliber handgun inside our barn. Big mistake as I thought I was going to have permanent hearing loss. In a larger area or outside the noise would not have had the same effect. It is the same with ponds. The small area traps the shock waves and can harm the fish.

Keep the Air Pump Running

Fish and plants need oxygen. You may need to place an oxygen pump on the bottom to ensure your water garden pond is well oxygenated. Even though the fish are extremely sluggish in winter, they still need plenty of oxygen.

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Pesticide labels and Tips on Pesticide Storage

Winter is coming! Remember, many liquid pesticides can be ruined if allowed to freeze. Pesticide labels will contain a warning against freezing if the chemical can be damaged by low temperatures.

Damage can be anything from a loss of strength making the pesticide less effective, a permanent separation of ingredients, gelling or crystallization of material, to a complete breakdown of the pesticide.

Tips on Storing Liquid Chemicals in Winter

Read pesticide labels carefully. Many chemicals will need to be stored in an area that is safe from freezing. Remember, during storage care must be taken to ensure that pesticides are out of reach of children and pets. They can be safely stored in the garage on a high shelf or a designated area that is out of reach.

Below are a few important considerations

• Different types of chemicals should be stored separately. Fertilizers, fungicides, herbicides, and insecticides should be stored in different areas.
• Flammable materials should be kept away from any ignition source.
• Always store materials in the original container with label intact. If the pesticide label is ruined, it can usually be found online under the manufacturer's website and printed.
• All pesticides should be stored away from moisture, drafts, and direct sunlight.
• A special cabinet can be used if it is designated only for pesticides. Do not store anything else with it. It should not be a cabinet space within a larger cabinet where food, clothing, toys, etc. are also stored.

The Storage Container

If you do not have an insulted storage container, you can make one. Read the pesticide labels for any special storage precautions first.

If there is no special precautions, you can place pesticide containers in a large plastic box lined with a type of insulation. Fiberglass insulation used for homes is one choice. A considerable amount of newspaper will also work. You will need to make sure all sides of the box are covered. Ventilation holes are necessary for volatile materials. Seal the lid with tape if the lid does not lock in place.

It is important to mark the box clearly as to what is inside so no one mistakenly gets into it. When you are finished, place the marked box in the designated area.

Remember, when possible, purchase your pesticides in a size that can be used in one year. Some pesticides have a short shelf life.

Be sure you never use the plastic storage box for anything else. Consider it to be contaminated by chemical residue whether you see anything or not.

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Overseeding a Lawn After Grass Is Dormant

I recently received a question from a visitor about overseeding a lawn after the lawn goes dormant.

If you are frequent reader of Lawn Care Academy, you already know that late summer or early fall is the best time to overseed a cool season grass lawn. However, many people say they plant very late in the year after the lawn is dormant, but it does come with several problems. I have listed a few below.

Three Points to Consider

One, when overseeding a dormant lawn, if the soil temperature drops below 35 degrees, the seeds may not germinate.

Important: If you are overseeding a dormant warm season grass, such as bermudagrass, with a cool season grass seed, it MUST be applied before soil temperatures are too cold for germination. Otherwise, you defeat the purpose of overseeding.

Two, if overseeding a lawn during the winter and you experience a series of warm, sunny days the seeds could germinate. However, growth will probably remain slow and the young grass may likely perish as soon as the ground refreezes.

Three, the seed could spoil if the ground remains too damp for too long without germination. As long as the ground is too cold for germination and is fairly dry, the seeds should keep until temperatures warm in spring.

Click on the link for more information on overseeding lawns.

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Over Wintering Koi and Goldfish in Backyard Garden Ponds

Over wintering koi properly can keep your fish healthy year after year. Learn important tips that will help make the transition easier.

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Water Garden Ponds and Streams

Water garden ponds or streams are transforming lawns into backyard sanctuaries. Find information for all aspects of building and maintaining garden ponds.

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Water Garden Pond Algae

Pond algae is one of the most common problems associated with water gardens and streams. Find the cause and the best ways to keep your pond clean and healthy.

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How Soil Organic Matter is Used by Plants

In short, soil organic matter is food for plants. As food, it will be consumed over time and must be replenished. If the organic matter in the soil is consumed faster than it is replaced, lawns can suffer.

Check out the facts below to see how it all works.

What is soil Organic Matter

Organic matter is one of the most important words in the organic gardener's dictionary. Soil organic matter can be naturally occurring or added by the homeowner. It can consist of manure, compost, shed grass roots, grass clippings, leaves, decomposing insect bodies, dead microorganisms and a host of other bio-degradable substances.

As a food source, these organic materials represent fats, proteins, carbohydrates, minerals and other substances. Microorganisms feed upon the soil organic matter and convert it into elements the plants can use.

Of the many nutrients released into the soil, nitrogen (N) is used in the greatest amount. It is also the element that fertility programs are based on.

This is important to know. Nitrogen is not very stable in the soil and soils will naturally lose about 1 to 3 lbs of nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. every year. Other nutrients are also lost. At the very least, soil microorganisms must be able to produce an equal amount of nutrients that are naturally lost each year just to maintain the status quo. Then add to that the amount taken up by plants. That means there must be a continued supply of naturally accumulating soil organic matter for the microorganisms to feed on. This puts a lot of pressure on lawns, which is the primary source of naturally occurring organic matter for your lawn. If the homeowner doesn't fertilize or do other things that promote a healthy lawn, it simply cannot keep up.

The Importance of Adding Organic Matter

Homeowner additions of organic matter in the form of a quality organic fertilizer or compost will provide additional food that will help keep your plants and soil microorganisms happy and healthy.

The importance of Fertilization

Healthy, thick lawns consume more nutrients than unhealthy ones. To keep grass from being stress and internal functions operating properly, it must receive nutrients. Without them, the grass will decline.

Microorganism activity is regulated by soil temperatures. They are least active in cool weather and winter and most active in mid-summer. Yet, many grasses will consume nutrients far after microorganisms have slowed considerably. Cool season grasses will consume the most nutrients well into the fall until soil temperatures reach into the low thirties.

In cooler weather, feeding your grass with fertilizers that provide an immediate or slower release of nutrients not dependent on soil microbes will keep your grass growing and healthy.

Knowledge is the key to a great lawn. Therefore, Lawn Care Academy has provided complete details on how to fertilize properly, how much to apply and the types of fertilizers you can use and much, much more. Click on the link to begin creating your perfect lawn.

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Watering a New Lawn

Watering a new lawn and properly watering an existing lawn is one of the most overlooked, but extremely important lawn care practices.

Too much water or frequent shallow watering, especially if you have an automatic sprinkler system is one of the major causes of lawn diseases, root rot with new grass, thatch buildup and a reduction of macro and microorganisms in the soil.

Watering a New Lawn

If you started from seed, keep the seed moist until it has germinated. After that, water lightly a few times a week. Allow the surface to dry, but not too dry before watering again. After a couple weeks, water less frequently, but deeper.

If you laid sod, the grass will need frequent water until it roots. The new sod cannot reach water until the roots develop and the sod is pinned to the soil. Once it has developed roots, water less often and deeper so the roots will grow deep. Below are other problems associated with excessive watering.

Reduction of Soil Microorganisms

Excessive water fills pores in the soil structure and reduces the amount of oxygen in the soil. Without sufficient oxygen there will be a reduction of beneficial organisms in the soil that can lead to many problems. One being the over-development of thatch in lawns.

Beneficial microorganisms include fungi and bacteria which break down fats, carbohydrates, proteins, and other raw elements found in the soil and thatch. When broken down they become food used by your grass and other plants. Without these elements plants can suffer.

Grass Diseases

Improperly watering a new lawn is a major cause of Pythium Blight, also called root rot. Once the disease develops the grass affected cannot be saved.

Proper lawn watering is one of your greatest defenses against grass diseases. Most diseases are caused by pathogenic fungi living in the soil and need consistent moisture to develop. Excessive irrigation, especially in the late evening or at night, is an invitation for a grass disease to develop. Watering in evening or at night can allow the soil to stay moist for 12 hours or longer each day. This is more than enough time for diseases to develop.

Some disease can seriously harm lawns and may necessitate the use of fungicides.

How to Develop Proper Lawn Watering Techniques

Do not set your sprinkler to come on automatically and do not water unless the grass needs it. For mature lawns the grass will begin to change to a blue-green color as a sign of needing water. This happens in the grass as a response to conserve moisture.

When watering, water deeply so the soil is moist down to three or four inches. This trains the roots to reach deep for moisture where the soil is more consistently damp. Avoid shallow watering.

Although this is more important during the warm summer months in most of the U.S, it is always important in areas with year around warm climates.

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Share This Site With Others

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Leaves Make Good Organic Lawn Fertilizer

Mulched leaves are great for your lawn and is a good source of free organic lawn fertilizer. Everyone knows that "free" is a great beginning to any organic fertilizer recipe. Leaves provide an organic source of nitrogen and helps build organic matter in your soil. In addition, mulching fallen leaves keeps leaves from harming your grass, is environmentally friendly and they are as good as most other organic lawn products. However, there are a few things you should do to ensure you gain the most benefit.

Important Facts to Know

Leaves break down into useful nutrients that plants can use because of the activity of soil microorganisms. However, microbe activity slows down significantly or even stops completely in winter, depending on the soil and air temperature. Therefore, the leaves may remain on the ground unchanged all winter until spring when microbe activity increases. This is normal, so you should not expect to see a lot reaction in the leaves or grass right away.

How to mulch Your Leaves

Finely mulching your leaves will give you a cleaner lawn and faster response in spring. In thick grass, the tiny particles of mulched leaves will fall between the grass blades and disappear. Soil contact is necessary for them to decompose.

A lawn mower with rotary turning blades (as opposed to cylinder blades) is the best choice for mulching leaves. Using a mulching blade will give the best results, but standard blades will work fine. Some mowers allow you to close the discharge opening on the deck keeping the leaves in contact with the blades longer.

If you do not have a mulching mower or you cannot close the discharge opening, try mowing while driving in reverse or pulling the mower and walking backwards. Depending on the mower design, this usually results in less side discharge and keeping more leaves under the mower longer.

Keep in mind that you can have too many leaves. If you have a lot of large trees and an excessive amount of leaves, you may need to remove some first. Rototill them into the garden or dispose of them in some other way. The goal is to mulch a reasonable amount over the lawn without smothering the grass. Your lawn will thank you for it next year.

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St. Augustine Grass Sprigs - Too Late To Plant?

I received an email from a visitor to the Lawn Care Academy asking if it is too late in the year to plant St. Augustine grass stolons she had removed from her garden. Also. if they can still be planted, what is the best way to do it. Below is the answer.

The perfect time for planting is when the grass is rapidly growing. The grass stolons will root and become established more quickly. The range of St. Augustine in the U.S. is from the most southern reaches of Florida to just north of Dallas, TX. If you live most anywhere in the southern half of Florida where the grass grows continuously all year, almost anytime of year is a good time to plant. The soil temperatures need to stay above 60 degrees. If you live in the northern areas of St. Augustine grass adaptability range, fall may not be the best time to plant. The grass goes completely dormant in late fall and through winter.

How to Plant St. Augustine Sprigs

Although there is now St. Augustine grass seed, no seed is currently available due to production problems when checked last. It still remains a plant that must be planted vegetatively. Care for St. Augustine grass is easy when following sound practices.

St Augustien grass produces stolons, also called runners. Stolons are the above ground stems and the way the grass spreads. Sprigs can be purchased or removed from your grass. Make sure it is the same species of grass you have because St. Augustine grass comes in a variety of color shades and blade coarseness. Sprigs are simply stolons cut into 8 to 12 inch pieces.

To plant, bury the sprigs horizontally just below the surface with the leaf blades sticking up out of the ground. For large areas, plant the stolons in rows end to end. The rows should be about 8 to 10 inches apart.

Water the sprigs lightly about 2 to 8 times a day, depending on the soil conditions, temperature and rain amounts. The sprigs should not be waterlogged, but should remain moist to encourage rooting. St. Augustine grass will root at the nodes, which are the growing points along the stolons.

Once the sprigs have rooted and are gripping the soil, begin watering only once a day with about a quarter inch of water. Continue that pattern for a week to ten days then cut the water down to a few times a week. Again, temperature, rain and soil type will help determine the amount of water required.

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Lawn Winterization Facts and Methods

Lawn winterization is a very important part of lawn care. However, it is primarily for cool season grasses. Warm season grasses can be winterized, but using a potash fertilizer.

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Organic Lawn Fertilizer Basics

The use of organic lawn fertilizer has increased in recent years. Success with organics requires knowledge of how they work and an understanding of your grass’ needs.

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Techniques for Overseeding Lawns

The practice of overseeding lawns is essential for maintaining your lawn’s long-term health and vibrancy. Yet it still remains one of the most overlooked disciplines by homeowners.

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Perennial and Annual Ryegrass

Perennial ryegrass was originally a forage grass, but with the introduction of new varieties, it is gaining popularity as a turf grass. Annual ryegrass has limited uses because of its one year life cy

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Tall Fescue Grass

Tall fescue is an important cool season grass with many desirable characteristics. It is well known for its dark green color, wear resistance and heat tolerance and the choice of many homeowners.

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Advice For Top Dressing Lawns

Step by step advice for top dressing lawns. Top dressing enriches soil, increases beneficial microbes and helps build a better soil structure.

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Developing A Lawn Fertilization Program

Behind every beautiful lawn is a good lawn fertilization program. Knowing how much fertilizer to apply is just as important as knowing when to apply it.

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Introduction to Cool Season Grass

Cool season grass is a term given to various grasses that grow best in the cooler areas of the country. Each grass has unique qualities and preferred zones of adaptation.

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Improving Grass Root Growth

One of the greatest factors that help lower fertilizer use while increasing efficiency is in improving grass root growth. Following a few simple techniques will greatly improve grass health.

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Organic Compost and Disease Suppression

The ability of organic compost to fight lawn diseases is just beginning to be understood. Here are several facts about composts that should be considered for the best turf response.

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Overseeding Cool Season Grasses Starts Now

Late summer and early fall marks the beginning of the growing season and the time for overseeding lawns. Lawn overseeding is one of the most important cultural practices to rejuvenate and thicken cool season grasses. Why? Many cool season grasses, such as tall fescue, ryegrass and species of fine fescue do not spread. Rather than spreading, each plant gets larger by gaining diameter as it matures.

Snce growth rate slows as plants mature, older lawns will often begin to thin. Therefore, the easiest way to ensure you maintain a healthy turf is to overseed with the type of grass you currently have or use a compatible grass seed.

Choosing the correct seed for overseeding your lawn is just as important, if not more important, than all the other maintenance practices. This is because not all grasses are compatible nor can all grasses be grown in all geographical locations. Planting grass that does not grow well where you live will always be a losing battle.

When overseeding, use a professional seed mixture blended for turf use. Professional blends contain the best seed available. You can find the best varieties at horticultural supply warehouses that serve nurseries, turf and landscape companies. Some of these warehouses have a retail section that is open to the public. BWI is a company I frequently use. Some well-stocked garden supply stores or local nurseries also carry a good supply for purchase.

In contrast, bargain store seed mixtures often use poor quality seed with the highest percentage of seed being the least expensive.

Here are a few guidelines for choosing seed:

• Make sure the seed you purchase contains at least three types of seed varieties. For example, if you have a tall fescue lawn, select a bag that contains three different varieties of turf type tall fescue. This way if one seed variety doesn't do well in your location and growing conditions, another variety will.
• Do not use a shade mix if your lawn is mostly in the sun. Do not overseed with a patch mix or specialty mix. These often contain a variety of seeds you don't need or want. However, your lawn seed blend can contain a portion of seed for shade use. If there are any heavy shade areas in your lawn, the shade grass will excel.
• Choose a compatible grass seed to overseed your lawn. For example, Kentucky 31 Tall fescue is only slightly compatible with turf-type tall fescue. Kentucky 31 is a field grass and is much larger. If you have a turf-type tall fescue lawn, overseed with the same grass or a Kentucky bluegrass mix.

For more information about overseeding, including a full description of equipment, seed amounts, and overseeding techniques, and more, click on the link provided.

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Keeping Lawn Weeds to a Minimum Without Chemicals

Times are changing for many of us. In some areas pesticides are completely banned, while other areas are seeing increasing restrictions. However, it is in all of our best interest to lower pesticide use. How do we do this? By maintaining our lawns in a way that discourages development of lawn weeds.

Lawn weeds are opportunistic. Thick lawns provide the least opportunity for weed development, while poorly maintained lawns can allow an explosion of weed growth. Lawn and garden weeds will grow whenever conditions favor them, but are hindered when conditions do not. Changing techniques to favor our lawn grass can help minimize weeds and reduce our use of weed control products.

Below is a list of conditions or maintenance practices that encourage the growth of lawn weeds:

• Maintaining a very thin stand of grass that allows plenty of room for opportunistic lawn weeds to develop.
• Excessive traffic that thins or wears down the grass.
• Prolonged drought or excessive moisture to the point of waterlogging.
• Over-watering drought resistant grass and under-watering water hungry grass species.
• Introducing weed seeds from brought-in topsoil, compost, manure, etc. Weed seeds can also be distributed on mowers. This is common when you have a mowing service maintain your lawn.
• Adding any soil conditioner, adding excessive nutrients, or any additions not supported by a soil test. Excessively low nutrients can also hinder grass growth and promote weed growth.
• Core aeration or dethatching during heavy weed growth periods. Although aeration is necessary, always remember that anything that disturbs the soil will bring weed seeds to the surface where they could germinate.

The following is a list of maintenance practices that hinder the growth of lawn weeds:

• Maintaining a thick, healthy lawn.

• Maintaining optimum fertility and pH for your grass type.
• Planting the correct species for your geographical locations and growing conditions.
• Mowing your grass at the correct height for your particular species. Mowing height varies as high as 4 inches for most cool season grasses to as low as 1 inch for some warm season grasses.
• Core aeration annually or biannually to relieve soil compaction and reduce thatch.
• Reducing traffic to an acceptable level. If possible, incorporate compatible spreading grasses so the lawn is self healing. An example is to overseed Kentucky bluegrass into a turf-type tall fescue lawn.

For every grass species there is an optimum fertility requirement and a way of maintaining the grass that promotes grass health instead of lawn weeds. I know it sounds complicated, but it is really not hard. There are usually just slight variations in care tactics between grass types, but those variations are important.

Lawn Care Academy is always here to help. Look through the site; it is filled with valuable information that can help you get on track to a beautiful lawn.

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