The Lawn Care Academy Blog

Biology of Grass Seed Germination - Steps of Seed Germination

Wed, 01 Feb 2012 02:33:40 GMT

Understanding the basic biology of grass seed germination will reinforce your knowledge of planting a lawn and help answer the “Why is it done this way?” line of questions.

Sitemap for Lawn Care Academy

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 19:22:50 GMT

Lawn Care Academy's Sitemap makes finding information painless. Pages are organized under subject related subheadings for easy access.

What If My lawn Pesticide Freezes?

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 19:17:15 GMT

Be sure to read the label of your lawn pesticide to see if freezing will harm it. Some lawn pesticides can handle freezing temperatures. Freezing may cause different reactions depending on the chemical.

"DO NOT FREEZE" may be on the label. This will generally apply to liquid pesticides. The label will give the low and high temperatures the herbicide can safely be stored in. For example: Amine 4 2,4-D, a common broadleaf weed herbicide, will separate below 25 degrees. Label: "do not store below 25 degrees".

What Happens if Pesticides Freeze?

In many cases the chemicals will separate. Other chemicals will crystallize or they may separate and crystallize. If separation has occurred then shaking the bottle in some manner will usually restore the chemical to usefulness. Other Chemicals may be ruined if stored below a certain temperature. Check to see if the chemical has changed in appearance or texture after it has thawed and after the container has been shaken. You can call the manufacturer (the number will be on the label) to see if the product is still usable. They will tell you what you need to do to restore it if it is possible.

Powdered Pesticides

Dry Powdered chemicals will usually not be affected. However, powders that come in "water-soluble plastic bags" often become brittle when the plastic freezes. The powder may easily break through the bag when you are handling it, which can be dangerous. Keep water-soluble containers in a warm and dry location through the winter.

Benefits of Humic Acid

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 17:52:39 GMT

Humic acid is one of the most important components of organic matter. It is a bio-stimulant that benefits plants including stimulating root growth and increase photosynthesis.

Soil Salinity Problems

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 17:01:36 GMT

High soil salinity known as salt-affected soils are common problems around the world. For most, standard treatments are easy to perform once the problems are understood.

Controlling Voles in Lawns Q & A

Tue, 24 Jan 2012 18:39:46 GMT

Controlling voles in your lawn is easy by following a few simple steps. Click here to learn the most effective method.

Excellent Lawn Care Questions and Answers

Sat, 21 Jan 2012 20:45:29 GMT

Read our top lawn care questions submitted by visitors plus my detailed answers. These pages are an excellent resource for lawn and tree care information.

Facts About Herbicides: "Systemic" and "Contact" Herbicides

Sun, 08 Jan 2012 15:22:45 GMT

Herbicides come in two categories: Systemic herbicides and contact herbicides.

The categories refer to how they work.

Systemic Herbicides are absorbed into the plant and work internally. It travels with the sap and kills the plant, roots and all. This is the herbicide of choice for hard to kill plants and those that easily regenerate from tubers, roots, etc.

Contact Herbicides will only kill the parts of the plant the herbicide touches. This is enough to control some plants species. Keep in mind that many plants will simply shed the damaged areas and replace the lost tissue. Other plants may require repeated applications until the plant uses up its below ground energy reserves and nutrients. Natural herbicides, such as Vinegar, are contact herbicides.

Most of the herbicides on the market these days are systemic herbicides. Once the herbicide makes contact with the plant the chemical will absorb through the leaves and stems. Most lawn weeds will begin to show signs of wilting within two to three days, depending on the chemical and the soil temperature. As a general rule, the warmer it is, the faster it will work. But not always. Round-up may take as long as three weeks before results are seen.

Contact herbicides usually work fast. In hot weather, the plant may react to the chemical almost immediately with wilting complete in as short as a few hours. Again, it only affects the part of the plant it touches.

Perception is everything, so herbicide companies will sometimes mix contact herbicides with systemic herbicides to give the impression the chemical works quickly. In reality, while the above ground parts may wilt quickly, the plant is not dead until the roots have died. That is the responsibility of the systemic part of the chemical.

If you are interested in a systemic herbicide, look for the word "systemic" on the label or for ingredients such as 2,4-D, Dicamba, MCPP, MCPA, etc.

If you want a contact herbicide, you can use vinegar or look for herbicides labeled "contact". There is also agricultural vinegar labeled for weed control that is stronger than household vinegar.

Facts on Controlling Winter Weeds

Thu, 05 Jan 2012 17:11:22 GMT

Winter weeds can be seen right now. Many resemble various forms of clover type plants. Annual and perennial weeds such as clover, speedwell, chickweed, and others stand out within the grass. But, can they be sprayed now and be dead by spring? Below are the facts you need to know.

Weed Growth Habits

Winter annual weeds germinate in the fall. They grow until it gets too cold and then will go dormant or semi-dormant, depending on temperatures. In the spring when temperatures rise, the weeds resume growth until soil and air temperatures become too warm for them.

Using Preemergent Herbicides

Although it's too late to use a preemergent herbicide now, they can be used in September or October for annual weeds. There are a few exceptions, but as a rule, annual weeds always start from seed.

Preemergent herbicides containing Isoxaben work well on broadleaf weeds. If applied later than October, it will not usually be effective.

Post Emergence Herbicides

Post emergence herbicides are applied after the weeds begin growth. They are best applied when the weeds are young. This is true for both winter and summer annual or perennial weeds.

What About Killing Weeds in Winter Now

If you live in the south where the weeds may not go completely dormant, spraying weeds may work for you. It depends on whether the sap is flowing or not.

The weeds may be green, but if the sap is not flowing due to cold temperatures, the weeds will not be controlled effectively. Even in the spring when growth resumes, the weeds may be slow to respond to chemicals in cold weather. It may even take two applications. If strayed too late in the spring, they may have begun to harden off and the chemicals will have far less effect. Spraying when young or when actively growing is essential. It doesn't hurt to do a small test before mixing up a lot of chemicals if you are uncertain how it will work.

Lawn Dog Damage Prevention and Repair

Wed, 28 Dec 2011 20:12:23 GMT

Lawn dog damage caused by your pet’s urine is extremely common. Learn why it happens and find out how to prevent damage and repair dead spots.

Complete Lawn Care advice- Lawn Care Tips, Zoysia, Fescue, overseeding lawns,

Sat, 24 Dec 2011 15:33:41 GMT

Expert lawn care advice for the challenges facing home lawns. How to improve soil to complete fertilization programs. Transform your yard into the lawn you've always wanted.

Merry Christmas to All and a Happy New Year!!

Sun, 18 Dec 2011 17:35:45 GMT

Everyone here at Lawn Care Academy would like to wish you all a very Merry Christmas and a Wonderful New Year.

We hope that next year will be filled with many blessings for all of my readers and those who are not yet readers.

God Bless you always. We hope you will continue to help make Lawn Care Academy the best online resource for lawn and tree care information. Please visit often.

Important Steps for Planting Bare Root Trees

Sun, 11 Dec 2011 23:36:50 GMT

Many people buy small bare root trees online. The best thing you can do is to order from a reputable outfit with a guarantee if it doesn't survive. Remember you get what you pay for.

The Arbor Day Foundation is well known for giving away 10 bare root trees with a membership donation. Yes, some have reported these free trees to be dead when they arrived, but then, free is free. (This is not an excuse.) Some have had great success, but sadly for most people, at least a portion of these trees still do not survive. For your best chances of getting them to grow, quick preplant preparation should begin as soon as you get the trees.

Preparing the Tree for Planting

As soon as you get the tree in the mail or get it home from the nursery, soak the bare roots in water for one to three hours. This is the most important step.

Prune any broken roots at the point where they are broken.

Soak the planting hole with water and allow to absorb.

Plant the tree at the correct depth being sure not to plant too deeply. Look for a root flare if possible. Some of the ten inch bare root stock you get from Arbor Day may need more careful attention.

Be sure to monitor the water needs of the tree. Adding beneficial mycorrhizal fungi in a gel form directly to the roots before planting or as a liquid directly to the soil after planting can help.

Is it Too Late to Winterize a Lawn

Thu, 08 Dec 2011 20:00:26 GMT

I always get a few questions about this time of year asking if it is too late to winterize your lawn. The answer depends on weather conditions and where you live.

Cool season grasses are still actively taking on nutrients until the soil temperatures dip into the mid thirties. Here, where I live, we have had some light snow already, but the grass is still very green and growing very slowly.

If you have had similar weather conditions and decide that lawn winterization is still doable, you will not get as much benefit as if you had winterized earlier in the fall, but you will still get some benefit.

If you decide to do this, put down a light application of fertilizer. No more than half of what you would have applied earlier. You may still get some leaching of nutrients that are not absorbed into the roots, but with a light application you shouldn't have much.

Don't use organics this time of year because most require the use of soil microorganisms to do the work of breaking the material down and most microbes are growing increasingly inactive now due to cooling soil temperatures. The benefit you get will be very slow in coming until it begins to warm up in spring.

Total Tree Care Resource for Landscape Trees and Shrubs

Wed, 07 Dec 2011 15:47:37 GMT

Lawn Care Academy also offers total tree care tips for the home landscape. You will find simple tips and instructions to feed and care for your trees and shrubs.

Tree Drawings Showing How to Prune Trees

Wed, 07 Dec 2011 00:36:33 GMT

Our tree drawings show how easy it is to prune a young shade tree for sound structure. See how to develop a dominate leader and a strong trunk.

Planting a Pecan Tree This Winter? Here are Some Tips

Sun, 04 Dec 2011 22:41:47 GMT

Are you planning on planting a pecan tree this winter? As you know they produce a lot of fruit. Growing up in the south we had an abundance of pecan trees.

Because of the size of the tree when full grown, you need to prune the seedling tree to a central leader the same as you would for any large shade tree. The fact that it is a pecan tree that produces fruit doesn't matter. Further pruning in the following years would also be the same as you would for a shade tree. I am currently writing a guide for pruning young shade trees that will be up in a few days.

As the tree matures, you will have a large shade tree that will produce pecans that can be sold, given away, or made into hundreds of pies. The drawback is you will have to compete with the squirrels for the nuts.

Does Sap Flowing from Winter Pruning Wounds Hurt Trees?

Sun, 04 Dec 2011 17:25:13 GMT

Certain trees, such as maples, birches, beeches, walnuts, hornbeans, and a few others will have an excess of sap that flows from the winter pruning wound, especially when cutting a limb back to the trunk.`This is sometimes referred to as "bleeding".

The trees mentioned above have slightly positive pressure inside the tree kind of like air inside of a tire. When a limb is cut and an opening is made in the tree, the sap will flow slowly, but freely out of the wound. It often will flow down the side of the tree and pool on the ground. It looks worse than it is and many feel their tree is in danger. In reality this is harmless to the tree.

Why it Happens Primarily in Winter

As stated above, there is internal pressure inside the tree that will push out fluid if an opening is made. This pressure is balanced when the leaves are on the tree because excess gases escape through the stomata. The stomata are the tiny pores through which atmospheric gases enter and are released. In fact, the upward movement of water and minerals into the roots and up into the tree is made possible by the suction that occurs as oxygen is released into the atmosphere.

Bottom line: if you prefer to have less sap flowing from wounds from the "bleeding" type of trees, it is better to prune these trees in mid summer. The natural tree defenses will kick in and sap will fill the spaces in and around the wound where they will harden and prevent pathogens from entering the tree.

Final Note: Do not confuse this natural sap flow with the bacterial infection called "Wetwood or Slimflux" that causes profuse bleeding in trees. Elms are most often affected, but populars, apples, birch, fur, maples and many other can get the disease. This infection occurs when leaves are on the tree. Bacterial wetwood sap can be foul smelling where natural bleeding from winter pruning is not.

There is no known cure for Wetwood infections.

Dormant Season Tree Pruning Do's and Don't's

Mon, 21 Nov 2011 17:21:54 GMT

Tree Pruning is one of the most common practices performed on trees. There are some important facts that you need to know about pruning that can save you headaches later.

Pruning cuts are wounds that the tree has to heal. It is also a major point for damaging fungi spores to enter, such as canker diseases and wood decaying microorganisms.

Trees heal themselves, but not in the dormant season. No wound closures take place from the time the tree goes dormant to just before green up. Based on this fact, here are some helpful tips.

While there are few absolutes in tree care, there are many sound tree pruning practices.

Below are a few "Do's" that are acceptable in pruning.

Prune trees just before the green up in early spring. This way the wounds will actively begin to close as soon as sap starts moving through the tree again.

It is okay to prune most trees during the summer months to speed recovery. Be careful to not cut away too many live branches. Prune lightly. Prune flowering trees after the flowers are gone. This way the tree begins to send in sap right away as a barrier against pathogens.

It is better to do several light prunings instead of one major pruning job.

You can prune young trees more heavily than older trees. Never prune more than 10 percent live branches from mature trees.

Some "Pruning Don't's" To Be Aware Of

Do not prune trees at the beginning of the dormant season in October, November or December. Dormant trees do not heal during this time. Instead wait until the end of the dormant season just before green-up so healing will begin as soon as the leaves begin to open.

Do not prune oak trees after green-up in areas where "oak wilt disease" is a problem. Insects that spread oak wilt will be attracted to the sap flow within the pruning cuts. Oak tree pruning should be performed in the dormant season just before green-up before the insects are out.

Do not prune back many live branches during the summer. Each live branch stores energy and removing too many can deplete nutrients more quickly.

Do not top trees as a pruning method, unless the situation specifically requires it. Topping is of the most damaging practices performed on trees. It drastically reduces nutrient flow, nutrient storage space, reduces disease resistance, and encourages regrowth of weak and dangerous branch formations.

There are more helpful pruning tips than those listed above. We will be adding more information in the coming days. Be sure to check out our new but growing section on tree care.

Nimblewill Lawn Weed Identification and Control

Fri, 18 Nov 2011 20:26:56 GMT

Nimblewill grass is a common garden and lawn weed. While this perennial grass can be difficult to control, following good cultural practices will deliver good results.

Lawn Care Academy Search Results

Thu, 17 Nov 2011 20:25:41 GMT

Can’t find what you need? Get custom search results with our site search tool powered by Google. We thank you for visiting Lawn Care Academy.

Complete Tree Planting Instructions for Home Lawns

Sat, 12 Nov 2011 17:41:17 GMT

Following good tree planting instructions will get your tree off to a great start.

Protect your Tree's Roots from a Winter Freeze

Tue, 08 Nov 2011 21:09:17 GMT

Did you know tree roots can die from freezing? This is primarily a concern with the smaller feeder roots, but slightly larger roots can also be affected.

Winter weather in parts of the U.S., Canada, and elsewhere can be harsh. Container plants are more easily affected because they don't have the warmth of the ground around them. Like bridges that freeze faster than roadways, so container plants freeze faster than in-ground plants. Bring the plant in if possible.

I tested this on a three foot maple left outside in the nursery container all winter in a five gallon container. I put no mulch around it. We had a few good freezes with temperatures that dipped below 10 degrees at times. Before the winter was even over I knew the tree would not survive.

Nurseries that have a lot of young trees that are left outdoors in containers will protect the root system by piling wood mulch in between and around the containers for added protection. If you do this be sure to cover the entire container with mulch, but not actually touching the tree. Leave a gap. Mulch can be purchased in bags, like in the photo, or by the tractor scoop loaded into the back of your truck. It can also be by the dump truck load if it is available in your area.

Newly transplanted trees have not developed an extensive root system yet and may be in danger of freezing with severe cold snaps. Put wood mulch several inches thick around the base and extending out a few feet. Do not put the mulch directly against the tree. Leave at least a couple inches of space between the mulch and the truck on the tree.

It is not an absolute cure every time, but it helps a lot. Many trees do not survive the following year if too many roots have been damaged by freezing. This is especially true if trees are already weak going into winter.

Tree Planting Guide for Correct Tree Planting Depth

Fri, 04 Nov 2011 23:54:39 GMT

This tree planting guide shows how to determine the correct planting depth. Planting too deeply is the most repeated mistake that can seriously affect tree health.

Three Methods of Stopping Tree Roots from Lifting Sidewalks

Thu, 03 Nov 2011 19:55:50 GMT

Planning on pouring a sidewalk and are concerned about damage from tree roots? Large trees can lift sidewalks. Here are a few tested solutions.

The best method was to place polystyrene sheets down before pouring the concrete. These sheets can withstand the elements and are used as outside basement wall insulation. They can be stacked, so two or three sheets 2" thick should be enough under a sidewalk depending on the proximity and size of the tree. When preparing for a sidewalk, make sure you excavate some extra depth to accommodate the height of the sheets.

How does it work?

Tree roots will not grow directing into the foam sheets. Instead, the roots will drop down and travel along the bottom of the sheets. Roots start off small and grow in diameter. As the roots enlarged in diameter and pushes upward against the foam, the foam simply collapses around the roots. This absorbs the pressure and prevents the sidewalk from cracking.

Some people use river rock or crushed rock as a base instead of foam. As expected, the roots did not grow far into the rocks, but dropped down underneath them. However, while rocks can move slightly, they do not collaspe and as the roots increased in size had only a limited effect at absorbing upward pressure. The rocks worked with smaller roots.

If you already have a sidewalk poured and are still concerned about roots, you can install a vertical root barrier. These are metal or plastic panels that are inserted along the side of sidewalks or driveways to redirect roots downward. These have been shown to be effective to various degrees.

WOW! You Have Got To Plant These Flowers Next Year!

Wed, 26 Oct 2011 15:11:16 GMT

Every year I plant flowers in several small gardens around the house. I must say that there hasn't been any particular flower that has stood out as a favorite - until now. It goes by several names: Lantana and Pink Caprice and also Confetti.

I am not a flower expert, so I didn't know much about Lantana when I bought them at the nursery last spring. It already had a few small clusters of flowers that caught my attention. I bought two and planted them in a front garden about two feet apart. I am glad I did.

By mid-summer the plants were two feet tall and had completely filled the front half of the six foot garden! The clusters of flowers were beautiful and lasted all year! The colors consisted of vibrant yellows, pinks, and oranges. They attracted hundreds of butterflies and many hummingbirds as well.

The wonderful thing is that those flowers in the picture are the result of just two plants! About six dollars in plants. The plant's stems are now about 3/4 of an inch in diameter at the base. It is a sturdy plant that took southern Missouri's hot summer weather with no problem. And, it can take a mild frost down to 28 degrees. The only drawback - it is an annual.

If you want some great flowers next year, try the Lantana. I will be building a new planter just for them. A few plants is all I will have to buy tp fill the planter. Let me know what you think of them.

Sweet Gum Trees - Say Goodbye to the Gum Balls

Fri, 21 Oct 2011 22:42:09 GMT

If you have a sweet gum tree, you know how beautiful they can be. The fall colors in parts of the country are fantastic. You also know what the "gum balls" are. They are the spike-laden balls that litter the ground by the thousands.

These hard gum balls become a tripping hazard for anyone near the tree. Forget about walking barefooted. Clean up is a chore under a large tree.

What To Do About Them?

Stop them from over forming. A simple injection into the tree with a "de-flowering" will prevent the flowers from maturing. With no flowers in spring, there will be no gum balls later in the year. It is called Micro-Injection.

How Does "Micro-Injection" Work?

A small hole is drilled into the zylem of the tree at a specific location and the stem of a pressurized cartridge filled with the "de-flowering agent" is injected into the tree where it is taken up internally. It doesn't take long for the chemical to work into every part of the tree and the flowers never mature.

Micro-injection is not just for de-flowering a tree. It is used for insecticides, fungicides, nutrients and for treating specific problems. It works extremely well and has been a favorite tool of arborists for decades.

Where Do I Get These Injections?

Lawn Care Academy will be offering these next spring so be watching for them. We will announce them on the website. We will be offering full instructions on how to do it correctly closer to spring.

Doing it yourself is not your thing? No problem. Most arborists are able to do the work for you. You can look in your phone book for an arborist who is qualified to do tree injections.

Be watching closer toward spring for our new line of products for the homeowner and professional.

The Myth of Soil Sterilization from Synthetic Fertilizers

Wed, 19 Oct 2011 22:51:07 GMT

Is soil sterilization the result of using synthetic fertilizers on our lawns? This page offers a detailed and thought provoking look at this commonly repeated lawn care myth.

Share This Site With Others

Wed, 19 Oct 2011 17:58:31 GMT

If you have found this site helpful, please share this site with others. We have provided a code to make it easier.

How to Easily Fix a Soil Iron (Fe) Deficiency

Tue, 18 Oct 2011 22:14:04 GMT

Iron is an important element in plant health. It is the "micronutrient" needed in the greatest amount by many plants. Plants lacking iron will have a yellow appearance, but often remain green along the leaf veins.

The solutions most people use to fix an iron deficiency are not always effective.

Reasons for Iron Deficiencies

It is possible for a soil to lack iron, but most are not. The most common form of iron deficiency is in high pH soils. In alkaline soil (soil above 7 pH) there is a chemical reaction with iron. The soil iron becomes "bound up" by changing iron into a form the roots cannot absorb. The soil may have sufficient amounts of iron, it is just unavailable.

In high pH soils, adding granulated iron products such as "ironite" or granulated fertilizer with iron will not usually help. As it breaks down it will be converted to the same form of iron that the roots cannot use.

What about liquid iron? Liquid iron can be absorbed through the plant tissue and is helpful, but is only a temporary fix. The plants will green up, but for a short time unless it is reapplied.

What is the long term fix?

The long term fix is to correct the soil pH. Adding sulfur or aluminum sulfate to high pH soils will lower the pH and make the iron available once again. Plus most plants prefer a more neutral to slightly acidic soil.

To learn more about iron and other essential nutrients, check out our page listing all these nutrients and what they do. Click on the link provided.

Controlling Lawn Moss Problems

Tue, 18 Oct 2011 03:24:51 GMT

Lawn moss can be frustrating to remove. The presence of moss indicates deeper problems with your lawn that must be corrected before you see improvement.

Simple Steps to Recycling Your Fall Leaves

Mon, 17 Oct 2011 22:03:45 GMT

The fall leaves are beginning to look beautiful here in Missouri and elsewhere. They are also beginning to fall from the trees. Here are a few things you can do with them that will benefit your lawn.

Leaves are a good source of organic matter and nutrients. Leaves are one of the principle sources of nutrients and soil building organic matter in forest settings. They can help your lawn in the same way.

Mulch your Leaves

You don't want to just leave your leaves on the lawn. They will smother the grass over time. But you can mulch them.

Some mowers are dedicated mulching mowers. Other mowers allow you to close the vents so the material stays under the mower as you mow. This converts your deck to a mulching deck. As the leaves are chopped up they will slide down through the grass and the microorganisms will break them down even further. Their nutrients are returned to the soil and used by your grass and trees.

Rototill Them Into Your Garden

You can also pile them in your garden and rototill them in. Covering the leaves with soil this way will break them down even faster and add valuable organic matter to your garden soil.

If you have a lot of leaves, you can chop them first before rototilling. This way you can put a lot more leave on the garden. The easiest way is to collect them in the mower's grass catcher and then dump them on the garden. Be sure to raise your mower deck as high as it will go before mowing. This way you are not collecting weedy grasses along with the leaves.

Mulching or rototilling your leaves is a great way to completing the nutrient cycle. Plant life begins in the soil and is returned to the soil to be used again. This is the way nature has done it since time began.

Have fun and enjoy the cool fall weather.

Myth About Fertilizer Numbers and Why They Are Important

Sun, 16 Oct 2011 15:59:22 GMT

Many myths have surfaced about fertilizer numbers and many think they are not important. Here is a revealing look at them and how you can use them properly.

Climate Zones for Grass Adaptation

Sun, 16 Oct 2011 03:07:21 GMT

There are four major climate zones for grass adaptation in the U.S. Choosing the right grass for where you live is important step towards a healthy lawn.

When To Prune Trees and Secrets Only Arborists Know

Fri, 14 Oct 2011 20:10:59 GMT

When to prune trees is the first Tree Pruning Tip. The "secrets only arborists know" is how the tree responds to pruning that can be very helpful to understand.

Best Times to Prune Live Branches

Remember that dead, injured, or diseased limbs can be pruned at anytime. However, there are two primary times for pruning live branches.

The first pruning period is during dormancy in late winter but before the buds break and before the flush growth of spring. Trimming branches during this period encourages faster growth in spring. Trees that are trimmed each year grow faster and have better structure than trees that receive no pruning.

Pruning creates temporary wounds on the tree. Pruning in the late dormant season limits the amount of time the wound is exposed to pathogenic fungi before it starts the healing process in early spring.

Exceptions to Winter Pruning

Some trees cannot be pruned in winter because they will "bleed". Bleeding is when a tree oozes sap from the pruning wound. This is usually only a problem for certain trees.

Do not prune the following trees in winter:

All varieties of Maple trees.
All varieties of birch trees.
Walnut and beech trees.
Cherry trees.

The second pruning period is just after each spring flush growth when the leaves have fully expanded. Pruning during this period will temporarily slow canopy and root growth which can be a desirable effect in some situations. This is because new limb growth and leaf expansion uses a lot of energy. A lot of nutrients are stored in the new growth. Removing live branches after the flush growth removes energy reserves and pushes the tree to dramatically slow the growth rate. Shrubs, hedges, or any tree where a slower growth is desirable should be pruned during the growing season.

Final Note

It is best to prune lightly or not at all during bud break and flush growth of spring. Pruning trees during the spring growth flush when the leaves are still expanding can deplete the tree of energy reserves and can even kill sick or weak trees.

Visitor Testimonials for Lawn Care Academy

Fri, 14 Oct 2011 01:32:49 GMT

Visitor testimonials and kind words for the help they received from Lawn Care Academy

Lawn Winterization Facts and Methods

Sat, 08 Oct 2011 17:04:48 GMT

Lawn winterization is a very important part of lawn care. However, it is primarily for cool season grasses. Warm season grasses can be winterized, but using a potash fertilizer.

Time for Lawn Winterization is Upon Us.

Sat, 08 Oct 2011 16:58:31 GMT

Now is the time for lawn winterization of Cool Season Grasses. These include tall fescue and fine fescue grasses, Kentucky bluegrass, and ryegrasses. These are most commonly found in the northern portions of the U.S. and Canada and the Transition Zone in the U.S.

The good indication it is time for winterizing is when the leaves on the trees start to change. The days are shorter and the weather is cooling, my favorite time of year.

How Grass Responds to Fall Weather Conditions

During this time grass growth is slowed considerably. However, the grass is still very active. The focus is now on the storage of nutrients and increased root development. Carbohydrate production through photosynthesis is still going strong so nutrient intake is very important. In fact, 3/4 of all the year's total nitrogen for cool season grasses is applied in the fall. Lawn winterization is the key to providing the necessary nutrients your grass needs. The nitrogen that is taken in and stored during the fall is used in early spring to bring the grass out of dormancy and to begin spring growth. It takes a lot of energy for healthy plant growth in spring. Your grass can slowly decline if it didn't take in sufficient nutrients to perform all internal functions. Check out our page on Lawn Winterization for winterizing tips and detailed information.

Measurement of Pesticide Toxicity

Fri, 30 Sep 2011 16:26:37 GMT

Contrary to popular belief, not all pesticides are the same. The toxicity levels are far different from extremely low the extremely high. It is not left up to chance as to which ones are the most toxic. There is a measurement scientists use. It is called the LD₅₀.

The LD₅₀ is the amount of material in milligrams/kilograms required to kill 50% of a test population of laboratory animals or insects. The lower the number, the more toxic the material is.

Pyrethrin, a common ingredient in home and garden insecticides and in animal and pet sprays, has a LD₅₀ of 1500 mg/kg. Compare that to Fenamiphos which has a LD₅₀ of 6 mg/kg. Fenamiphos can only be purchased and used by state certified applicators and is a restricted use Pesticide.

The toxicity on the label of all pesticides are noted by the "Signal Words". The strongest warning "Danger/Poison (with skull and crossbones universal symbol) is reserved for LD₅₀ of 0 to 50. The "warning" label is reserved for LD₅₀ of 50 to 500. The "Caution" signal word is reserved for LD₅₀ of 500 or greater and is the least toxic.

However, common sense should always accompany the use of pesticides. Always follow all label safety instructions, store material away from children and animals, store in original containers, and apply only when it is safe to do so. Do not exceed the amounts listed on the label.

(Partial source: Dr. Nick Christians, Professor of Horticultural, Iowa State University, Fundamentals of Turfgrass Management)

The Best Times for Lawn Aeration

Tue, 20 Sep 2011 22:22:39 GMT

Lawn aeration is performed for several reasons. The holes that are created from core aeration will allow water and oxygen direct access to the roots that may have been hindered before. Aeration helps relieve soil compaction and reduces thatch build up. The cores left on the surface break down and encourage microorganisms to naturally feed upon thatch layers.

However, anything that opens the soil surface to the air will increase evaporation rates and can stress the turf. For this reason core aeration or dethatching should be timed for maximum benefit with the least amount of stress to the grass.

Best Times for Core Aeration

For cool season grasses: The best time is in late summer to early fall. In fact, right now in September is a great time to aerate cool season grasses.

For warm season grasses: The best time for core aeration of warm season species is in the spring before it really starts to heat up. The grass will heal quickly as it enjoys the benefits created by opening the soil.

Buy Your Grass Seed Now to Avoid the Shortages Later

Sat, 10 Sep 2011 15:11:07 GMT

Now is the time for overseeding tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, rye grasses and other cool season grasses. The temperatures are falling and the highs are more in line with what cool season grasses prefer. Be sure to get you seed early before they run out. The seed supply is only as large as the seed crop was for that year.

This year was not a good year for the many turf-type tall fescue grass seed manufacturers. The spring was too wet in Oregon, where the highest quality seed comes from. Seed prices reflect that as well.

Suppliers can run short later in the season and I have had to find other sources for seed at the last minute when I had waited too long.

Plus, the seed prices tend to climb as the season progresses anyway. Buying your seed now will ensure you are not left out or forced to buy a lower quality seed mixture.

Look for Landscape contractor supply stores that also serves the public to get the largest variety of professional quality seed. I use a company called BWI. Lesco is another company. Both have outlets in various cities around the country. There are other companies as well. If you can't find what you are looking for, you can also purchase from your local turf specialist or landscaper if need be. They can often get the best seed. Avoid discount stores that sell last year's seed or low quality seed.

Enjoy your lawn. It is your private oasis.

Four Helpful Tips for Planting Grass Seed

Thu, 08 Sep 2011 20:35:07 GMT

The following tips were submitted by a L.C.A. visitor and I felt they could benefit my readers. Lawn Care Academy is not affiliated with the website or products from Nature's Finest Seed.

Planting a lawn from grass seed as opposed to sod can have its benefits. For one, planting seed is quite a bit less expensive than installing sod. A seeded lawn also tends to grow deeper and stronger roots. The disadvantages, of course, are that you will be waiting longer for your lawn to grow in, and the establishment of a seeded lawn will take more time and effort.

Below are a few tips to help increase you knowledge of lawn overseeding.

Use a seed spreader. You can spread your seed by hand, but you will have a lot more even and uniform results if you use a seed spreader. Be sure to check the recommended rate you should be applying seed to the soil, based on the species. This is usually measured in the number of pounds per thousand square feet. As you are spreading the seed, walk horizontally across the yard, and then vertically, at a right angle to your previous path. You might have to repeat this several times until you have used the appropriate amount of seed.

Roll the surface of the lawn to to improve germination and to ensure seeds come into contact with the soil. To make sure that happens, you should use a roller to lightly roll the topsoil. Most rollers are designed to carry some water, but an empty one will fill your needs easily. Good soil contact will quicken the germination and establishment of your lawn.

Cover the ground lightly with mulch. Mulch will not only help limit soil erosion while the seeds are growing, but it will maintain the moisture that is so necessary for germination to occur. You can use mulches made from many different materials, but do not cover the ground so much that the seeds’ sunlight is significantly blocked. Mulch lightly, so that you still see about 50% of the ground. If you are planting warm-season grasses such as buffalo grass or bermuda grass, which depend heavily on direct sunlight, mulch may be more detrimental than helpful. Consider your yard’s individual conditions before making a decision.

Keep the ground moist until plants can be seen for 2 weeks. This is very important. If the seeds dry out, they will die. You must water lightly, anywhere from 3 to 4 times daily. Your goal is to keep the soil moist but not soaking wet. Once you have seen green shoots for at least 2 weeks, you can begin limiting your irrigation to as deeply and infrequently as possible.

Providing the highest quality seed products & advice to landowners and homeowners for over 20 years. From grass and wildflower seeds to habitat and pasture seeds. For more info: kindly visit www.naturesfinestseed.com

Fall Lawn Winterization “Do’s and Don’t’s” for Cool and Warm Season Grasses

Thu, 01 Sep 2011 16:10:57 GMT

Fall is the time for lawn winterization. While especially true for cool season grasses, warm season grasses should be treated differently.

As a general rule, warm season grasses do not need to be winterized in the same way a cool season grass does. This is because warm season grass and cool season grasses growth habits and nitrogen use are very different in the fall.

Basic Growth Differences Between The Two Types of Grasses

Cool Season Grasses: Cool season grasses, such as tall fescues, Kentucky bluegrasses, and ryegrasses begin their growth in the fall. This is when the grass absorbs the most nitrogen. 75 percent of the annual nitrogen for cool season grass is applied in the fall. There is increased root development and nutrient storage well into the winter months. The stored nitrogen taken in during the fall is used for the early spring surge growth.

Warm Season Grasses: Warm season grasses growth begins when the grass emerges from dormancy in mid spring and continues until fall when the soil temperatures drop below 70 degrees. Once the grass goes completely dormant little or no nutrients absorption takes place. The grass only needs to be fertilized when the grass is actively growing.

Winterizing Fertilizer and Spring Dead Spot Disease in Bermudagrass

Spring Dead Spot Disease, as the name sounds, is a disease that appears in bermudagrass in the spring. The disease pathogens must be present in the soil to get the disease. If the disease is present, it will appear as circular dead spots throughout the lawn.

Important: However, the disease will appear in the spring, but it actually begins in the fall when the grass has slowed growth due to cooler temperatures. Applying a high nitrogen fertilizer in the fall, like those used on cool season grasses, will only feed the disease and the symptoms will likely be worse in the spring. If you have had problems with S.D.S. disease, it is better to use no fertilizer in late summer or, better yet, use a potash (potassium) fertilizer instead.

Quick Look at Do's and Don't's for Lawn Fertilization

Do apply the heaviest nitrogen to cool season grasses in the fall, up to 1 lb. nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft.

Do not apply a high nitrogen fertilizer in late summer or early fall on warm season grasses, especially bermudagrass, where spring dead spot disease has occurred before or where it has occurred near you on another property.

Do apply a pre-emergent in early spring to warm season grasses and especially cool season grasses.

Do not apply a high nitrogen fertilizer to cool season grasses in early spring unless you know exactly what percentage of nitrogen you are applying. High nitrogen applications can cause a surge growth and quick depletion of stored nutrients.

Do not apply a high nitrogen fertilizer in early spring to warm season grasses long before it emerges from dormancy. You will only be feeding the weeds.

Tree Roots and Heavy Clay Soil Problems and Solutions

Wed, 24 Aug 2011 16:36:14 GMT

Almost no lawn is complete without some trees or shrubs for added beauty. However, tree roots growing in heavy clay soils can be problematic depending on the tree and conditions. Examples of root problems are described below.

Commonly Seen Problem: Have you ever seen a mature tree blown over by the wind? Blown-over trees often retain a six to eight foot root structure in a circular fan shape around the base of the tree. Very often the roots are extremely shallow with very little dirt clinging to the roots.

Diagnostic Observations: Tree roots growing in clay soils can be presented with several difficulties.

Clay soils tend to compact easily.

Compacted clay soil have less oxygen available to tree roots.

Due to soil compaction, less water is available to roots.

Clay soil can also become waterlogged easily in heavy rains.

Trees planted in heavy clay soil and back-filled with better soil will often develop girdling roots as the roots avoid the heavy clay surrounding the hole.

Holes dung in heavy clay and then back-filled with a different material such as compost, often act like bowls as the hole fills with water, drowning the roots.

What the List Above Really Describes

The list above describes one primary factor in tree decline: A lack of oxygen getting to the roots. Compacted soils, waterlogged soils, girdling roots, can cause roots to decline making the tree unstable. The condition most often shows up in larger trees where the weight of the tree causes it to topple, especially when pushed by winds.

Added Note: Root diseases can cause roots to decline as well. If disease is the problem, replanting disease resistant varieties is essential to avoid the same problems reoccurring.

Ways to Reduce Tree Root Problems

Plant trees native to your area, climate zone, and best suited for your conditions.

In heavy clay, back-fill with some of the clay dug from the hole. This can help encourage roots to grow into the surrounding clay and not just remain in the dug hole.

Avoid planting trees most prone to girdling. Note, also, that trees that grow well in flood plain areas will more readily form girdling roots when planted in drier locations.

Some Trees Prone to Root Girdling

Green ash
Norway maple
Silver maple
Poplars
Littleleaf linden
Red maple
Tulip Tree

Myth #4: Low Grass Cutting Height - Make Your Lawn Look Like a Golf Course

Fri, 19 Aug 2011 15:18:36 GMT

A common myth is that you can lower your grass cutting height to look like a golf course. Find out why this can harm or even kill your grass.

Myth: Using Gypsum for Lawns to Sweeten Soil

Fri, 19 Aug 2011 15:06:29 GMT

Using gypsum for lawns to raise soil pH is a common myth. Find out why it doesn’t work well as a liming material and what gypsum is best used for.

Exposing Popular Lawn Care Myths and Misconceptions

Fri, 19 Aug 2011 14:46:35 GMT

Lawn care myths abound in our culture. These errors can cost homeowners money and even harm your plants. Find out what they are and the solution to them.

Poison Ivy Plant Identification and Treatments

Thu, 04 Aug 2011 03:19:28 GMT

Contact with a poison ivy plant causes allergic reactions in millions every year. Learning the facts and how to positively identify the plant can keep you safe outside.

Deer Repellent with a Double Purpose

Wed, 03 Aug 2011 20:22:49 GMT

Deer may be beautiful to watch, but they can be very destructive to plants and young trees. Keeping them away may be a challenge. There is a product that works for certain times of the year that will also feed your plants. What is it? Milorganite Fertilizer.

Milorganite is an organic fertilizer made from sewage sludge from the Milwaukee Metropolitan Sewerage District. It has been used by professional turf managers for decades, but is now more readily available to the public at garden stores. It has been processed and granulated so it can be easily broadcasted by hand or with a spreader. There is no foul odor.

Milorganite is a very slow release fertilizer containing 6 percent nitrogen, 2 percent phosphorus, and 0 percent potassium seen as 6-2-0 on the bag. It is safe to use on most plants and will generally not burn even at the heaviest rate. It also contains 4 percent iron. Be advised it may contain heavy metals, such as boron, so extended use around vegetables is not recommended.

How to Use Milorganite Organic Fertilizer as a Deer Repellent

It is very easy. Simply spread the fertilizer on and around plants and around the base of trees. The heavier rate may be best, but you can experiment with it.

This product when tested as a deer deterrent worked well as in summer months when the deer had other vegetation they can eat instead. Milorganite fertilizer was not as effective in repelling deer during the winter months when alternate vegetation was not as plentiful.

Chigger Bites: A New Way To Stop The Itch

Mon, 25 Jul 2011 20:16:30 GMT

Chigger bites are ten times worse than mosquito bites in my opinion. Mosquito bites may itch for an hour or so, but a bite from a chigger can last for days and even weeks.

The million dollar question is how do you stop the itch?

I use "Cool Mint Listerine". Yes, you read that correctly. Cool Mint Listerine works better than Ivarest or Calamine Lotion. I don't know if just any Listerine product will work, but cool mint is the recommended choice.

My Recent Experience with Chiggers and Listerine

Not long ago I was out photographing dogs in and around some taller grass. Later my legs were covered with chigger bites. When the itching got too bad I reached for the bottle of Listerine. I poured a couple ounces onto a hand towel and then coated my ankles and legs. In a few minutes the itching had stopped.

Make sure the area of skin is good and wet from the Listerine. Open sores may sting slightly for a second or two. Every two or three hours you may need to reapply it. However, some people claim one treatment stops the itch all day long. Also, putting on a clean pair of socks seems to help around ankle bites, presumably because it keeps some of the air away from the bite. Bites exposed to the air tend to inch more.

If you are going into areas where you will likely encounter chiggers, be sure to spray your clothing with a bug repellent product containing "deet". You can use Deep Woods Off, etc. Deet will keep mosquitoes, biting flies, chiggers, and other biting insects away. When you get home make sure you take a shower and do not put back on the same clothes you wore in chigger territory.

Make sure you have a bottle of Cool Mint Listerine on hand as well. It maybe be just the thing you need to soothe the itch of chiggers bites, mosquitoes, and other bites.

Listerine, it is not just a mouthwash anymore. Now it is a home remedy for chigger bites and other bites as well.