The Lawn Care Academy Blog

Kentucky Bluegrass

Wed, 16 May 2012 02:18:05 GMT

Kentucky bluegrass is one of the most popular of all the cool season lawn grasses in the U.S. It is a beautiful grass known for its uniformity, color, texture and density.

Compost or Peat Moss? What is the Difference?

Tue, 15 May 2012 23:41:58 GMT

Peat Moss, or sphagnum moss, is well-decomposed material used for water retention in soils, especially sandy soils.

The term "humus" represents organic material that has broken down about as far as it can go and includes peat moss. This is why peats will stay in the ground for centuries without decomposing any further until removed and sold to consumers for gardens or other uses. Its primary use is to add organic matter to soils, for water retention, and for building soil structure.

Golf courses use peat moss in golf green constuction. The peat's primary purpose is to help retain water and add to the CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) lacking in sand alone. Since peats will break down at only about 2% per year, the grass itself is usually able to replace the 2% loss if the grass is healthy. Not including topdressing, shed grass roots are the primary replacement material on greens and a large portion in lawn grass.

Compost is decomposed organic material that can also be used for water retention and building soil structure. However, compost will continue to break down further. Some will be converted to CO² gas and some to H₂O. It will also release nutrients into the soil by microbial action, which can be used by plants.

Here are Some Fun Facts About Peats

On a sand golf green, it takes approximately 1867 lbs of peat moss per 1000 sq. ft. to add 2% organic matter to a 12 inch depth (1867 X 2% = 37.34). Shed grass roots are the main source of organic matter naturally produced by grass. Grass will shed its root system twice a year, but not at one time. Roots will decompose 75% with the remaining 25% becoming humus. This equates to 37 lbs of shed roots with 25% (9 lbs) becoming humus.

This means that grass must produce 148 lbs of shed roots per 1000 sq. ft. each year (148 X 25% = 37 lbs) to replace the 2 percent loss in peat in order to maintain a constant level of humus organic matter.

Here are Some Facts About Compost

Compost can be used as a source of fertilizer, unlike peats. Compost will decompose at least 75% depending on the materials used to make the compost. Compost will need to be added each year to add additional organic material. Since it is not possible to add a significant amount of compost each year to an established lawn, less amounts are added by topdressing with added fertilizer if necessary.

Peat moss and compost are broken down by soil microorganisms. Since microbes are temperature sensitive, soil temperature must be above 55 degrees before any signifiant action will occur.

How AgriGro Works

Wed, 09 May 2012 01:02:35 GMT

AgriGro is astounding! See how AgriGro works to know why it is changing our view of turf management.

Pictorial of Agrigro Test Results

Tue, 08 May 2012 23:13:10 GMT

Agrigro, all natural bio stimulant, has been extensively tested and documented around the world. Here are some of the Agrigro test results from the 80's and 90's.

Understanding Organic Biostimulants

Sat, 05 May 2012 22:28:58 GMT

Organic biostimulants include seaweed extract (kelp), plant hormones, humic acid, and other organic materials. Can they do what manufacturers claim? Read and see.

Soil pH Problems and Cures

Mon, 23 Apr 2012 22:13:41 GMT

Soil pH is more important than many people think and is often one of the last things that is checked. If your neighbor's soil pH is good, yours must be too, right? This is often not the case.

The pH scale runs from 1 to 14 with 7 being neutral. When the soil pH starts climbing above 7 it is considered high. (Although some plants prefer slightly high pH.) Starting at a pH of 8, nutrients, such as iron, phosphorus, boron, and zinc begin to become "bound up" and unavailable to plants.

With soil pH below 5, the soil begins to bind up other nutrients, such as magnesium and phosphorus. Whether high or low, the nutrients that are made unavailable will weaken and even kill many plants.

That's Not All...

Bacteria are the most abundant microorganisms in the soil and necessary for plant health. When the soil pH falls below 5.5, it no longer favors bacteria growth, but instead, begins to favor the fungi family of microbes. Many of the pathogenic fungi that were kept at bay with the bacteria will have more freedom to attack your plants.

For more information on soil pH and how to correct pH problems, click on the link provided.

Biology of Grass Seed Germination - Steps of Seed Germination

Mon, 23 Apr 2012 14:28:48 GMT

Understanding the basic biology of grass seed germination will reinforce your knowledge of planting a lawn and help answer the “Why is it done this way?” line of questions.

Complete Lawn Care advice- Lawn Care Tips, Zoysia, Fescue, overseeding lawns,

Mon, 16 Apr 2012 13:02:23 GMT

Expert lawn care advice for the challenges facing home lawns. How to improve soil to complete fertilization programs. Transform your yard into the lawn you've always wanted.

Why a Preemergent May Fail

Mon, 16 Apr 2012 12:29:13 GMT

You may have already applied a preemergent herbicide this spring. However, at times, preemergents will not keep out the weeds, and by summer's end, the lawn is full of crabgrass. What can go wrong?

Frequent Heavy Rains

Frequent heavy rains will stress any preemergent to the max. If you get get several inches of rain a half dozens times or more in the spring and early summer, you can expect to see some crabgrass starting to get through the defenses. It also depends on what brand and type of preemergent you use. Some are better than others.

The Best Preemergents

Two of the best preemergents go by the trade names, "Barricade and "Dimension". These will last all season where many of the homeowner brands, such as "Halts", will only last four to five months.

If you want season long protection using homeowner brands, you may need to reapply your preemergent in early summer. This will be especially true if you get a lot of bad weather. You may also try to get the better preemergents that last all year with one application. You will probably need to go to a landscape and turf supply to find the best selection. These are the stores that serve professional landscapers and turf professionals. Many places, such as BWI, sell to the general public, as well as, supply the landscape industry. Check the internet or phone book if you live in a larger city.

When Winter Salt Affects your Soil

Wed, 11 Apr 2012 18:31:25 GMT

Salt is a good ally in the winter to make sidewalks and roads safe. However, that salt will wash off into the surrounding soil it and can cause many problems for plants.

Excess salt can cause serious problems in soil that affect plants, but is easily fixable. Salt affected-soils can bind up nutrients and can prevent water absorption, and affect soil structure.

Click on the link to find out how to fix the problem and restore health to your soil.

Life Cycle of Crabgrass and How to Stop It

Sat, 07 Apr 2012 12:59:13 GMT

Crabgrass can be a very troublesome plant. If you have had trouble with crabgrass before, you know that by summer's end it can be thick and cover most of the yard.

Here is what many people don't know

Crabgrass is an annual weedy grass. This means it must begin each year by seed and will completely die off each year beginning with the first killing frost.

A single crabgrass plant can drop 150,000 to 200,000 seeds each year. They are very tiny, but these seeds ensure the survival of the plant.

With billions of seeds in your soil, the only sure way to stop crabgrass is to use a preemergent herbicide that stops crabgrass before it begins. Most preemergents are sold in spring fertilizers. Look for a label with "crabgrass control" or something similar on the bag.

What many people don't know about preemergents

A preemergent works by forming a barrier over the soil surface. When the seeds first germinate the preemergent prevents further growth and the plant dies before it is ever becomes visible to us.

If you apply the preemergent AFTER the seeds have germinated it will not work at all. It must be applied before the crabgrass germinates. The only exception is the preemergent with the tradename "Dimension". It will kill crabgrass in the seedling stage as well.

Crabgrass will germinate in bare spots first where the sun will heat up the soil the fastest.

For more information on crabgrass, see our page by clicking the link provided.

Killing Spring Weeds

Thu, 22 Mar 2012 20:42:15 GMT

Spring weeds are often harder to control than summer or fall weeds. There are several reasons for this.

Many spring weeds actually start growing in the cool temperatures of the fall. They go dormant during the cold winter weather and begin rapid growth in the spring. By this time many weeds have already matured and some have even started to harden, making them harder to kill.

Here are some reasons why herbicides seem less effective.

Many herbicides are not designed for cool weather. The "summer" herbicides work best when temperatures are at least in the seventies, and even better in the eighties.

"Cool Weather" herbicides will be label for early spring use and will contain ingredients like "ester, such as 2,4-D ester, or other ingredients containing ester. Dicamba is an ingredient that can be used in both summer and winter, but caution should be used in hot mid-summer weather.

Ester is very volatile and the vapor can cause damage to low hanging leaves or plants in weather above 80 degrees.

All About Soil pH and Corrective materials

Tue, 28 Feb 2012 18:02:13 GMT

All plants have a preferred soil pH. This page offers sound advice on why the pH is important, how to check it, plus methods and materials for correctly adjusting soil pH

How Safe is Glyphosate Herbicide (i.e. RoundUp, etc.)

Mon, 27 Feb 2012 20:24:23 GMT

Glyphosate is the active ingredient of products like RoundUp, Touchdown, and many others. The amount of the chemical glyphosate included in products may be as low as 1% for homeowner products and over 40% for commercial products. However, scientific research still holds that glyphosate is generally environmentally safe.

I have always believed that no chemical is 100% safe. Its safety also depends on how well you follow safe use practices, etc.

However, in one article by the "Dept of Pathology, New York Medical College" on the risk assessment for humans states: "lifetime feeding tests of glyphosate and AMPA, both have shown no tumorigenic potential... and is shown to be noncarcinogenic." The medical article lists many other results on human health with similar conclusions. A different research article on "glyphosate poisoning" showed that swallowed glyphosate was eliminated from the body with no metablization of the chemical.

This is not to dispel any concerns about using any product containing glyphosate or any other herbicide. These articles deal with the concerns of people exposed to glyphosate. While the effect on other aspects of the environment has also been shown very favorably, it also showed the the surfactant added to the solution may be more toxic than the glyphosate alone.

Note: The following articles are the abstracts that give an overview of the testing and results. To read these research articles, please click below:

Glysphsate Poisoning

Safety evaluation and risk assessment of the herbicide Roundup and its active ingredient, glyphosate, for humans

For more information about using herbicides safely, click on the Permalink.

Preemergent Herbicide Questions and Answers

Sun, 12 Feb 2012 00:34:54 GMT

A preemergent herbicide used properly is more valuable than many realize. This page contains questions and answers about preemergents.

Excellent Lawn Care Questions and Answers

Sun, 12 Feb 2012 00:32:26 GMT

Read our top lawn care questions submitted by visitors plus my detailed answers. These pages are an excellent resource for lawn and tree care information.

Killing Crabgrass After It Has Spread

Sun, 12 Feb 2012 00:27:05 GMT

Using preemergents are the easiest way of preventing crabgrass. However, killing crabgrass after it has begun can be done, but will take diligence. Here's how.

Chinch Bugs Require Fast Action

Sun, 12 Feb 2012 00:19:43 GMT

Chinch bugs can kill a lawn in as little as a few weeks. Fast action is required to kill the insects and stop further damage.

Controlling Voles in Lawns Q & A

Sun, 12 Feb 2012 00:10:29 GMT

Controlling voles in your lawn is easy by following a few simple steps. Click here to learn the most effective method.

Crabgrass May Germinate Earlier This Year

Tue, 07 Feb 2012 00:05:04 GMT

Keep an eye on the soil temperatures. Crabgrass will germinate when the temperatures reach 55 degrees for 5 consecutive days. Grabgrass is a summer annual. It dies off each fall and must start back from seed each spring. With the warmer weather many of us are having, it may come sooner than last year.

A good way of determining the approximate time of germination is to watch the forsythias plants. If you have forsythias in your area, note that their blooming closely coincides with the germination of crabgrass seeds.

The best way to stop crabgrass from germinating is to apply a preemergent. Many spring fertilizers will have a crabgrass preemergent added to it. Look for bags saying "crabgrass control" or similar wording.

If you apply the preemergent/fertilizer after the crabgrass has germinated, it will not work. You will have crabgrass. Almost all preemergents must be applied before the seeds have germinated for it to be affective.

Don't use old fertilizer with preemergent more than two years old. I have tested them myself and have found that preemergents more than two years old are not nearly as effective. Many seeds germinated and before long I was overrun with crabgrass. Buy it in the spring and use it in the spring for the best results.

Sitemap for Lawn Care Academy

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 19:22:50 GMT

Lawn Care Academy's Sitemap makes finding information painless. Pages are organized under subject related subheadings for easy access.

What If My lawn Pesticide Freezes?

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 19:17:15 GMT

Be sure to read the label of your lawn pesticide to see if freezing will harm it. Some lawn pesticides can handle freezing temperatures. Freezing may cause different reactions depending on the chemical.

"DO NOT FREEZE" may be on the label. This will generally apply to liquid pesticides. The label will give the low and high temperatures the herbicide can safely be stored in. For example: Amine 4 2,4-D, a common broadleaf weed herbicide, will separate below 25 degrees. Label: "do not store below 25 degrees".

What Happens if Pesticides Freeze?

In many cases the chemicals will separate. Other chemicals will crystallize or they may separate and crystallize. If separation has occurred then shaking the bottle in some manner will usually restore the chemical to usefulness. Other Chemicals may be ruined if stored below a certain temperature. Check to see if the chemical has changed in appearance or texture after it has thawed and after the container has been shaken. You can call the manufacturer (the number will be on the label) to see if the product is still usable. They will tell you what you need to do to restore it if it is possible.

Powdered Pesticides

Dry Powdered chemicals will usually not be affected. However, powders that come in "water-soluble plastic bags" often become brittle when the plastic freezes. The powder may easily break through the bag when you are handling it, which can be dangerous. Keep water-soluble containers in a warm and dry location through the winter.

Benefits of Humic Acid

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 17:52:39 GMT

Humic acid is one of the most important components of organic matter. It is a bio-stimulant that benefits plants including stimulating root growth and increase photosynthesis.

Soil Salinity Problems

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 17:01:36 GMT

High soil salinity known as salt-affected soils are common problems around the world. For most, standard treatments are easy to perform once the problems are understood.

Facts About Herbicides: "Systemic" and "Contact" Herbicides

Sun, 08 Jan 2012 15:22:45 GMT

Herbicides come in two categories: Systemic herbicides and contact herbicides.

The categories refer to how they work.

Systemic Herbicides are absorbed into the plant and work internally. It travels with the sap and kills the plant, roots and all. This is the herbicide of choice for hard to kill plants and those that easily regenerate from tubers, roots, etc.

Contact Herbicides will only kill the parts of the plant the herbicide touches. This is enough to control some plants species. Keep in mind that many plants will simply shed the damaged areas and replace the lost tissue. Other plants may require repeated applications until the plant uses up its below ground energy reserves and nutrients. Natural herbicides, such as Vinegar, are contact herbicides.

Most of the herbicides on the market these days are systemic herbicides. Once the herbicide makes contact with the plant the chemical will absorb through the leaves and stems. Most lawn weeds will begin to show signs of wilting within two to three days, depending on the chemical and the soil temperature. As a general rule, the warmer it is, the faster it will work. But not always. Round-up may take as long as three weeks before results are seen.

Contact herbicides usually work fast. In hot weather, the plant may react to the chemical almost immediately with wilting complete in as short as a few hours. Again, it only affects the part of the plant it touches.

Perception is everything, so herbicide companies will sometimes mix contact herbicides with systemic herbicides to give the impression the chemical works quickly. In reality, while the above ground parts may wilt quickly, the plant is not dead until the roots have died. That is the responsibility of the systemic part of the chemical.

If you are interested in a systemic herbicide, look for the word "systemic" on the label or for ingredients such as 2,4-D, Dicamba, MCPP, MCPA, etc.

If you want a contact herbicide, you can use vinegar or look for herbicides labeled "contact". There is also agricultural vinegar labeled for weed control that is stronger than household vinegar.

Facts on Controlling Winter Weeds

Thu, 05 Jan 2012 17:11:22 GMT

Winter weeds can be seen right now. Many resemble various forms of clover type plants. Annual and perennial weeds such as clover, speedwell, chickweed, and others stand out within the grass. But, can they be sprayed now and be dead by spring? Below are the facts you need to know.

Weed Growth Habits

Winter annual weeds germinate in the fall. They grow until it gets too cold and then will go dormant or semi-dormant, depending on temperatures. In the spring when temperatures rise, the weeds resume growth until soil and air temperatures become too warm for them.

Using Preemergent Herbicides

Although it's too late to use a preemergent herbicide now, they can be used in September or October for annual weeds. There are a few exceptions, but as a rule, annual weeds always start from seed.

Preemergent herbicides containing Isoxaben work well on broadleaf weeds. If applied later than October, it will not usually be effective.

Post Emergence Herbicides

Post emergence herbicides are applied after the weeds begin growth. They are best applied when the weeds are young. This is true for both winter and summer annual or perennial weeds.

What About Killing Weeds in Winter Now

If you live in the south where the weeds may not go completely dormant, spraying weeds may work for you. It depends on whether the sap is flowing or not.

The weeds may be green, but if the sap is not flowing due to cold temperatures, the weeds will not be controlled effectively. Even in the spring when growth resumes, the weeds may be slow to respond to chemicals in cold weather. It may even take two applications. If strayed too late in the spring, they may have begun to harden off and the chemicals will have far less effect. Spraying when young or when actively growing is essential. It doesn't hurt to do a small test before mixing up a lot of chemicals if you are uncertain how it will work.

Lawn Dog Damage Prevention and Repair

Wed, 28 Dec 2011 20:12:23 GMT

Lawn dog damage caused by your pet’s urine is extremely common. Learn why it happens and find out how to prevent damage and repair dead spots.

Merry Christmas to All and a Happy New Year!!

Sun, 18 Dec 2011 17:35:45 GMT

Everyone here at Lawn Care Academy would like to wish you all a very Merry Christmas and a Wonderful New Year.

We hope that next year will be filled with many blessings for all of my readers and those who are not yet readers.

God Bless you always. We hope you will continue to help make Lawn Care Academy the best online resource for lawn and tree care information. Please visit often.

Important Steps for Planting Bare Root Trees

Sun, 11 Dec 2011 23:36:50 GMT

Many people buy small bare root trees online. The best thing you can do is to order from a reputable outfit with a guarantee if it doesn't survive. Remember you get what you pay for.

The Arbor Day Foundation is well known for giving away 10 bare root trees with a membership donation. Yes, some have reported these free trees to be dead when they arrived, but then, free is free. (This is not an excuse.) Some have had great success, but sadly for most people, at least a portion of these trees still do not survive. For your best chances of getting them to grow, quick preplant preparation should begin as soon as you get the trees.

Preparing the Tree for Planting

As soon as you get the tree in the mail or get it home from the nursery, soak the bare roots in water for one to three hours. This is the most important step.

Prune any broken roots at the point where they are broken.

Soak the planting hole with water and allow to absorb.

Plant the tree at the correct depth being sure not to plant too deeply. Look for a root flare if possible. Some of the ten inch bare root stock you get from Arbor Day may need more careful attention.

Be sure to monitor the water needs of the tree. Adding beneficial mycorrhizal fungi in a gel form directly to the roots before planting or as a liquid directly to the soil after planting can help.

Is it Too Late to Winterize a Lawn

Thu, 08 Dec 2011 20:00:26 GMT

I always get a few questions about this time of year asking if it is too late to winterize your lawn. The answer depends on weather conditions and where you live.

Cool season grasses are still actively taking on nutrients until the soil temperatures dip into the mid thirties. Here, where I live, we have had some light snow already, but the grass is still very green and growing very slowly.

If you have had similar weather conditions and decide that lawn winterization is still doable, you will not get as much benefit as if you had winterized earlier in the fall, but you will still get some benefit.

If you decide to do this, put down a light application of fertilizer. No more than half of what you would have applied earlier. You may still get some leaching of nutrients that are not absorbed into the roots, but with a light application you shouldn't have much.

Don't use organics this time of year because most require the use of soil microorganisms to do the work of breaking the material down and most microbes are growing increasingly inactive now due to cooling soil temperatures. The benefit you get will be very slow in coming until it begins to warm up in spring.

Total Tree Care Resource for Landscape Trees and Shrubs

Wed, 07 Dec 2011 15:47:37 GMT

Lawn Care Academy also offers total tree care tips for the home landscape. You will find simple tips and instructions to feed and care for your trees and shrubs.

Tree Drawings Showing How to Prune Trees

Wed, 07 Dec 2011 00:36:33 GMT

Our tree drawings show how easy it is to prune a young shade tree for sound structure. See how to develop a dominate leader and a strong trunk.

Planting a Pecan Tree This Winter? Here are Some Tips

Sun, 04 Dec 2011 22:41:47 GMT

Are you planning on planting a pecan tree this winter? As you know they produce a lot of fruit. Growing up in the south we had an abundance of pecan trees.

Because of the size of the tree when full grown, you need to prune the seedling tree to a central leader the same as you would for any large shade tree. The fact that it is a pecan tree that produces fruit doesn't matter. Further pruning in the following years would also be the same as you would for a shade tree. I am currently writing a guide for pruning young shade trees that will be up in a few days.

As the tree matures, you will have a large shade tree that will produce pecans that can be sold, given away, or made into hundreds of pies. The drawback is you will have to compete with the squirrels for the nuts.

Does Sap Flowing from Winter Pruning Wounds Hurt Trees?

Sun, 04 Dec 2011 17:25:13 GMT

Certain trees, such as maples, birches, beeches, walnuts, hornbeans, and a few others will have an excess of sap that flows from the winter pruning wound, especially when cutting a limb back to the trunk.`This is sometimes referred to as "bleeding".

The trees mentioned above have slightly positive pressure inside the tree kind of like air inside of a tire. When a limb is cut and an opening is made in the tree, the sap will flow slowly, but freely out of the wound. It often will flow down the side of the tree and pool on the ground. It looks worse than it is and many feel their tree is in danger. In reality this is harmless to the tree.

Why it Happens Primarily in Winter

As stated above, there is internal pressure inside the tree that will push out fluid if an opening is made. This pressure is balanced when the leaves are on the tree because excess gases escape through the stomata. The stomata are the tiny pores through which atmospheric gases enter and are released. In fact, the upward movement of water and minerals into the roots and up into the tree is made possible by the suction that occurs as oxygen is released into the atmosphere.

Bottom line: if you prefer to have less sap flowing from wounds from the "bleeding" type of trees, it is better to prune these trees in mid summer. The natural tree defenses will kick in and sap will fill the spaces in and around the wound where they will harden and prevent pathogens from entering the tree.

Final Note: Do not confuse this natural sap flow with the bacterial infection called "Wetwood or Slimflux" that causes profuse bleeding in trees. Elms are most often affected, but populars, apples, birch, fur, maples and many other can get the disease. This infection occurs when leaves are on the tree. Bacterial wetwood sap can be foul smelling where natural bleeding from winter pruning is not.

There is no known cure for Wetwood infections.

Dormant Season Tree Pruning Do's and Don't's

Mon, 21 Nov 2011 17:21:54 GMT

Tree Pruning is one of the most common practices performed on trees. There are some important facts that you need to know about pruning that can save you headaches later.

Pruning cuts are wounds that the tree has to heal. It is also a major point for damaging fungi spores to enter, such as canker diseases and wood decaying microorganisms.

Trees heal themselves, but not in the dormant season. No wound closures take place from the time the tree goes dormant to just before green up. Based on this fact, here are some helpful tips.

While there are few absolutes in tree care, there are many sound tree pruning practices.

Below are a few "Do's" that are acceptable in pruning.

Prune trees just before the green up in early spring. This way the wounds will actively begin to close as soon as sap starts moving through the tree again.

It is okay to prune most trees during the summer months to speed recovery. Be careful to not cut away too many live branches. Prune lightly. Prune flowering trees after the flowers are gone. This way the tree begins to send in sap right away as a barrier against pathogens.

It is better to do several light prunings instead of one major pruning job.

You can prune young trees more heavily than older trees. Never prune more than 10 percent live branches from mature trees.

Some "Pruning Don't's" To Be Aware Of

Do not prune trees at the beginning of the dormant season in October, November or December. Dormant trees do not heal during this time. Instead wait until the end of the dormant season just before green-up so healing will begin as soon as the leaves begin to open.

Do not prune oak trees after green-up in areas where "oak wilt disease" is a problem. Insects that spread oak wilt will be attracted to the sap flow within the pruning cuts. Oak tree pruning should be performed in the dormant season just before green-up before the insects are out.

Do not prune back many live branches during the summer. Each live branch stores energy and removing too many can deplete nutrients more quickly.

Do not top trees as a pruning method, unless the situation specifically requires it. Topping is of the most damaging practices performed on trees. It drastically reduces nutrient flow, nutrient storage space, reduces disease resistance, and encourages regrowth of weak and dangerous branch formations.

There are more helpful pruning tips than those listed above. We will be adding more information in the coming days. Be sure to check out our new but growing section on tree care.

Nimblewill Lawn Weed Identification and Control

Fri, 18 Nov 2011 20:26:56 GMT

Nimblewill grass is a common garden and lawn weed. While this perennial grass can be difficult to control, following good cultural practices will deliver good results.

Complete Tree Planting Instructions for Home Lawns

Sat, 12 Nov 2011 17:41:17 GMT

Following good tree planting instructions will get your tree off to a great start.

Protect your Tree's Roots from a Winter Freeze

Tue, 08 Nov 2011 21:09:17 GMT

Did you know tree roots can die from freezing? This is primarily a concern with the smaller feeder roots, but slightly larger roots can also be affected.

Winter weather in parts of the U.S., Canada, and elsewhere can be harsh. Container plants are more easily affected because they don't have the warmth of the ground around them. Like bridges that freeze faster than roadways, so container plants freeze faster than in-ground plants. Bring the plant in if possible.

I tested this on a three foot maple left outside in the nursery container all winter in a five gallon container. I put no mulch around it. We had a few good freezes with temperatures that dipped below 10 degrees at times. Before the winter was even over I knew the tree would not survive.

Nurseries that have a lot of young trees that are left outdoors in containers will protect the root system by piling wood mulch in between and around the containers for added protection. If you do this be sure to cover the entire container with mulch, but not actually touching the tree. Leave a gap. Mulch can be purchased in bags, like in the photo, or by the tractor scoop loaded into the back of your truck. It can also be by the dump truck load if it is available in your area.

Newly transplanted trees have not developed an extensive root system yet and may be in danger of freezing with severe cold snaps. Put wood mulch several inches thick around the base and extending out a few feet. Do not put the mulch directly against the tree. Leave at least a couple inches of space between the mulch and the truck on the tree.

It is not an absolute cure every time, but it helps a lot. Many trees do not survive the following year if too many roots have been damaged by freezing. This is especially true if trees are already weak going into winter.

Tree Planting Guide for Correct Tree Planting Depth

Fri, 04 Nov 2011 23:54:39 GMT

This tree planting guide shows how to determine the correct planting depth. Planting too deeply is the most repeated mistake that can seriously affect tree health.

Three Methods of Stopping Tree Roots from Lifting Sidewalks

Thu, 03 Nov 2011 19:55:50 GMT

Planning on pouring a sidewalk and are concerned about damage from tree roots? Large trees can lift sidewalks. Here are a few tested solutions.

The best method was to place polystyrene sheets down before pouring the concrete. These sheets can withstand the elements and are used as outside basement wall insulation. They can be stacked, so two or three sheets 2" thick should be enough under a sidewalk depending on the proximity and size of the tree. When preparing for a sidewalk, make sure you excavate some extra depth to accommodate the height of the sheets.

How does it work?

Tree roots will not grow directing into the foam sheets. Instead, the roots will drop down and travel along the bottom of the sheets. Roots start off small and grow in diameter. As the roots enlarged in diameter and pushes upward against the foam, the foam simply collapses around the roots. This absorbs the pressure and prevents the sidewalk from cracking.

Some people use river rock or crushed rock as a base instead of foam. As expected, the roots did not grow far into the rocks, but dropped down underneath them. However, while rocks can move slightly, they do not collaspe and as the roots increased in size had only a limited effect at absorbing upward pressure. The rocks worked with smaller roots.

If you already have a sidewalk poured and are still concerned about roots, you can install a vertical root barrier. These are metal or plastic panels that are inserted along the side of sidewalks or driveways to redirect roots downward. These have been shown to be effective to various degrees.

WOW! You Have Got To Plant These Flowers Next Year!

Wed, 26 Oct 2011 15:11:16 GMT

Every year I plant flowers in several small gardens around the house. I must say that there hasn't been any particular flower that has stood out as a favorite - until now. It goes by several names: Lantana and Pink Caprice and also Confetti.

I am not a flower expert, so I didn't know much about Lantana when I bought them at the nursery last spring. It already had a few small clusters of flowers that caught my attention. I bought two and planted them in a front garden about two feet apart. I am glad I did.

By mid-summer the plants were two feet tall and had completely filled the front half of the six foot garden! The clusters of flowers were beautiful and lasted all year! The colors consisted of vibrant yellows, pinks, and oranges. They attracted hundreds of butterflies and many hummingbirds as well.

The wonderful thing is that those flowers in the picture are the result of just two plants! About six dollars in plants. The plant's stems are now about 3/4 of an inch in diameter at the base. It is a sturdy plant that took southern Missouri's hot summer weather with no problem. And, it can take a mild frost down to 28 degrees. The only drawback - it is an annual.

If you want some great flowers next year, try the Lantana. I will be building a new planter just for them. A few plants is all I will have to buy tp fill the planter. Let me know what you think of them.

Sweet Gum Trees - Say Goodbye to the Gum Balls

Fri, 21 Oct 2011 22:42:09 GMT

If you have a sweet gum tree, you know how beautiful they can be. The fall colors in parts of the country are fantastic. You also know what the "gum balls" are. They are the spike-laden balls that litter the ground by the thousands.

These hard gum balls become a tripping hazard for anyone near the tree. Forget about walking barefooted. Clean up is a chore under a large tree.

What To Do About Them?

Stop them from over forming. A simple injection into the tree with a "de-flowering" will prevent the flowers from maturing. With no flowers in spring, there will be no gum balls later in the year. It is called Micro-Injection.

How Does "Micro-Injection" Work?

A small hole is drilled into the zylem of the tree at a specific location and the stem of a pressurized cartridge filled with the "de-flowering agent" is injected into the tree where it is taken up internally. It doesn't take long for the chemical to work into every part of the tree and the flowers never mature.

Micro-injection is not just for de-flowering a tree. It is used for insecticides, fungicides, nutrients and for treating specific problems. It works extremely well and has been a favorite tool of arborists for decades.

Where Do I Get These Injections?

Lawn Care Academy will be offering these next spring so be watching for them. We will announce them on the website. We will be offering full instructions on how to do it correctly closer to spring.

Doing it yourself is not your thing? No problem. Most arborists are able to do the work for you. You can look in your phone book for an arborist who is qualified to do tree injections.

Be watching closer toward spring for our new line of products for the homeowner and professional.

The Myth of Soil Sterilization from Synthetic Fertilizers

Wed, 19 Oct 2011 22:51:07 GMT

Is soil sterilization the result of using synthetic fertilizers on our lawns? This page offers a detailed and thought provoking look at this commonly repeated lawn care myth.

Share This Site With Others

Wed, 19 Oct 2011 17:58:31 GMT

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How to Easily Fix a Soil Iron (Fe) Deficiency

Tue, 18 Oct 2011 22:14:04 GMT

Iron is an important element in plant health. It is the "micronutrient" needed in the greatest amount by many plants. Plants lacking iron will have a yellow appearance, but often remain green along the leaf veins.

The solutions most people use to fix an iron deficiency are not always effective.

Reasons for Iron Deficiencies

It is possible for a soil to lack iron, but most are not. The most common form of iron deficiency is in high pH soils. In alkaline soil (soil above 7 pH) there is a chemical reaction with iron. The soil iron becomes "bound up" by changing iron into a form the roots cannot absorb. The soil may have sufficient amounts of iron, it is just unavailable.

In high pH soils, adding granulated iron products such as "ironite" or granulated fertilizer with iron will not usually help. As it breaks down it will be converted to the same form of iron that the roots cannot use.

What about liquid iron? Liquid iron can be absorbed through the plant tissue and is helpful, but is only a temporary fix. The plants will green up, but for a short time unless it is reapplied.

What is the long term fix?

The long term fix is to correct the soil pH. Adding sulfur or aluminum sulfate to high pH soils will lower the pH and make the iron available once again. Plus most plants prefer a more neutral to slightly acidic soil.

To learn more about iron and other essential nutrients, check out our page listing all these nutrients and what they do. Click on the link provided.

Controlling Lawn Moss Problems

Tue, 18 Oct 2011 03:24:51 GMT

Lawn moss can be frustrating to remove. The presence of moss indicates deeper problems with your lawn that must be corrected before you see improvement.

Simple Steps to Recycling Your Fall Leaves

Mon, 17 Oct 2011 22:03:45 GMT

The fall leaves are beginning to look beautiful here in Missouri and elsewhere. They are also beginning to fall from the trees. Here are a few things you can do with them that will benefit your lawn.

Leaves are a good source of organic matter and nutrients. Leaves are one of the principle sources of nutrients and soil building organic matter in forest settings. They can help your lawn in the same way.

Mulch your Leaves

You don't want to just leave your leaves on the lawn. They will smother the grass over time. But you can mulch them.

Some mowers are dedicated mulching mowers. Other mowers allow you to close the vents so the material stays under the mower as you mow. This converts your deck to a mulching deck. As the leaves are chopped up they will slide down through the grass and the microorganisms will break them down even further. Their nutrients are returned to the soil and used by your grass and trees.

Rototill Them Into Your Garden

You can also pile them in your garden and rototill them in. Covering the leaves with soil this way will break them down even faster and add valuable organic matter to your garden soil.

If you have a lot of leaves, you can chop them first before rototilling. This way you can put a lot more leave on the garden. The easiest way is to collect them in the mower's grass catcher and then dump them on the garden. Be sure to raise your mower deck as high as it will go before mowing. This way you are not collecting weedy grasses along with the leaves.

Mulching or rototilling your leaves is a great way to completing the nutrient cycle. Plant life begins in the soil and is returned to the soil to be used again. This is the way nature has done it since time began.

Have fun and enjoy the cool fall weather.

Myth About Fertilizer Numbers and Why They Are Important

Sun, 16 Oct 2011 15:59:22 GMT

Many myths have surfaced about fertilizer numbers and many think they are not important. Here is a revealing look at them and how you can use them properly.

Climate Zones for Grass Adaptation

Sun, 16 Oct 2011 03:07:21 GMT

There are four major climate zones for grass adaptation in the U.S. Choosing the right grass for where you live is important step towards a healthy lawn.

When To Prune Trees and Secrets Only Arborists Know

Fri, 14 Oct 2011 20:10:59 GMT

When to prune trees is the first Tree Pruning Tip. The "secrets only arborists know" is how the tree responds to pruning that can be very helpful to understand.

Best Times to Prune Live Branches

Remember that dead, injured, or diseased limbs can be pruned at anytime. However, there are two primary times for pruning live branches.

The first pruning period is during dormancy in late winter but before the buds break and before the flush growth of spring. Trimming branches during this period encourages faster growth in spring. Trees that are trimmed each year grow faster and have better structure than trees that receive no pruning.

Pruning creates temporary wounds on the tree. Pruning in the late dormant season limits the amount of time the wound is exposed to pathogenic fungi before it starts the healing process in early spring.

Exceptions to Winter Pruning

Some trees cannot be pruned in winter because they will "bleed". Bleeding is when a tree oozes sap from the pruning wound. This is usually only a problem for certain trees.

Do not prune the following trees in winter:

All varieties of Maple trees.
All varieties of birch trees.
Walnut and beech trees.
Cherry trees.

The second pruning period is just after each spring flush growth when the leaves have fully expanded. Pruning during this period will temporarily slow canopy and root growth which can be a desirable effect in some situations. This is because new limb growth and leaf expansion uses a lot of energy. A lot of nutrients are stored in the new growth. Removing live branches after the flush growth removes energy reserves and pushes the tree to dramatically slow the growth rate. Shrubs, hedges, or any tree where a slower growth is desirable should be pruned during the growing season.

Final Note

It is best to prune lightly or not at all during bud break and flush growth of spring. Pruning trees during the spring growth flush when the leaves are still expanding can deplete the tree of energy reserves and can even kill sick or weak trees.